I would really only feel completely at ease if I split the cases and washed everything but you may get away with taking the flywheel cover off and getting in there and rinsing that way.
Oops..
I always powerwash my quads before I take them apart to get the mud/sand off etc,. Anyway, Pulled my heads off, no problem. Pulled my cylinders off and a chunk of some residual oily sand falls into the chain guide on my back cylinder.
Okay, so I drain the oil and run (2) full quarts of oil through the guide area to clear the sand out. Just wondering if this or something similar has happened to anyone and what all did you do to clear it out.
Okay, so I drain the oil and run (2) full quarts of oil through the guide area to clear the sand out. Just wondering if this or something similar has happened to anyone and what all did you do to clear it out.
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Or remove your output shaft and clean that way.
i think if i was going to leave it intact n try n flush it , may want to use something thinner than oil ???
was it alot ? if it was just little you should be fine with the flush you did.
If you don't want to pull the shaft or split the cases then run ALOT of deisel through it 5-10 gal. Taking it apart is the only sure way but the deisel should get it.
I agree with fastfatboy. Flush it with a lot of diesel.
I don't know if I would use diesel...not because it won't work...but because of what it might do to the rubber/nitrile seals and other non-metallic parts.
Having I diesel truck I can attest to the incredible rubber destroying properties of diesel fuel.
I replaced an old cracked diesel fuel line with some premium goodyear fuel hose...it lasted all of a week...
I did some research and found out that the non-metallic parts that come in contact with diesel fuel must be rated for it.
I purchaed a new bosch diesel fuel rated line, and it's still on the truck 10 years later.
I would hate to see the diesel do more damage than good.
If you absolutly have to improvise use Kerosene...it cleans better and is not as corrosive to rubber parts...
I would use a motor flush like Solder Seals Gunk....
It's not that expensive...and that's what it's for...
Here look @ this...
LINK:
SOLDER SEAL GUNK MF2 5-Minute Motor Flush, 30oz
Having I diesel truck I can attest to the incredible rubber destroying properties of diesel fuel.
I replaced an old cracked diesel fuel line with some premium goodyear fuel hose...it lasted all of a week...
I did some research and found out that the non-metallic parts that come in contact with diesel fuel must be rated for it.
I purchaed a new bosch diesel fuel rated line, and it's still on the truck 10 years later.
I would hate to see the diesel do more damage than good.
If you absolutly have to improvise use Kerosene...it cleans better and is not as corrosive to rubber parts...
I would use a motor flush like Solder Seals Gunk....
It's not that expensive...and that's what it's for...
Here look @ this...
LINK:
SOLDER SEAL GUNK MF2 5-Minute Motor Flush, 30oz
Thanks for all the options guys.
It wasn't a lot of sand but any little bit could be hazardous ya know.
I think I will try the diesel fuel first then run the flush to get the diesel out. Any opinions on why that could potentially be a bad idea?
It wasn't a lot of sand but any little bit could be hazardous ya know.
I think I will try the diesel fuel first then run the flush to get the diesel out. Any opinions on why that could potentially be a bad idea?
I'd split the case if I were you. I know your like most of us on here and have a shit load of money invested into your engine. I'd rather be safe the sorry you know.
There is a screen between the engine case that will catch most of everything that passes through the engine. If anything its gonna get caught up there and lower your oil PSI maybe??
There is a screen between the engine case that will catch most of everything that passes through the engine. If anything its gonna get caught up there and lower your oil PSI maybe??
IMO most of the contaminants you should be trying to remove are in the -10 mircron size.
The larger particles are too big to even fit in the areas where they will cause engine damage.
The oil screen is designed to catch particles large enough to damage the oil pump.
This is usually around 100 microns or so.
The smaller particles will flow right thru the pump and out to the spin on filter...
depending on the quality of your filter, it will catch most of the +10 to -30 micron contaminants on the first pass thru.
Contaminants 100 microns and up will usually not want to stay in suspention and will settle out to the bottom of the crankcase, if given the time.
This means you will have contaminants +30 to -100 microns and -10 microns in suspension, and free to cause damage.
since most bearing clearances are in the 2 to 5 micron range, the -10 miron contaminants are the enemy.
The only way to actively remove them is with a bypass type sub-micron filter...
since this is not financially advantagious, simply flushing 2 or 3 times with an approved motor flush, and changing the oil 3 or 4 times with a spin on filter change
@ each oil change should be more than adequate.
If I had a $10,000 motor...this is what I would do....
1)...Original contaminated oil and spin on filter....
2)...first addition of recommened amount of motor flush for oil volume.
3)...first engine run of specified time for flush directions.
4)...drain oil, motor flush, and change spin on filter...
5)...refill oil, new spin on filter, second addition of motor flush.
6)...second engine run for specified time.
7)...drain #2...no filter change.
8)...refill #3 oil+flush
9)...third engine run for specd. time...
10)...drain #3...no filter change...
11)...refill #4 oil only, no flush
12)...fourth engine run....double the specd. time
13)...drain #4....replace spin on filter.
14)...refill # 5...oil only
15)...at this point I would warm up the quad, and go on a 20 minute ride, ending with a final oil and filter change.
I would now consider the engine as clean as you are going to get it barring a complete teardown.
All oil drains should be done with the oil as close to operating temp. as safety allows.
The information I posted above is NOT fact or law...only what I remember from 25+ years of working on engines, and remember reading about.
This procedure is my opinion and based on only my experience with how an engines lubricating system functions.
The larger particles are too big to even fit in the areas where they will cause engine damage.
The oil screen is designed to catch particles large enough to damage the oil pump.
This is usually around 100 microns or so.
The smaller particles will flow right thru the pump and out to the spin on filter...
depending on the quality of your filter, it will catch most of the +10 to -30 micron contaminants on the first pass thru.
Contaminants 100 microns and up will usually not want to stay in suspention and will settle out to the bottom of the crankcase, if given the time.
This means you will have contaminants +30 to -100 microns and -10 microns in suspension, and free to cause damage.
since most bearing clearances are in the 2 to 5 micron range, the -10 miron contaminants are the enemy.
The only way to actively remove them is with a bypass type sub-micron filter...
since this is not financially advantagious, simply flushing 2 or 3 times with an approved motor flush, and changing the oil 3 or 4 times with a spin on filter change
@ each oil change should be more than adequate.
If I had a $10,000 motor...this is what I would do....
1)...Original contaminated oil and spin on filter....
2)...first addition of recommened amount of motor flush for oil volume.
3)...first engine run of specified time for flush directions.
4)...drain oil, motor flush, and change spin on filter...
5)...refill oil, new spin on filter, second addition of motor flush.
6)...second engine run for specified time.
7)...drain #2...no filter change.
8)...refill #3 oil+flush
9)...third engine run for specd. time...
10)...drain #3...no filter change...
11)...refill #4 oil only, no flush
12)...fourth engine run....double the specd. time
13)...drain #4....replace spin on filter.
14)...refill # 5...oil only
15)...at this point I would warm up the quad, and go on a 20 minute ride, ending with a final oil and filter change.
I would now consider the engine as clean as you are going to get it barring a complete teardown.
All oil drains should be done with the oil as close to operating temp. as safety allows.
The information I posted above is NOT fact or law...only what I remember from 25+ years of working on engines, and remember reading about.
This procedure is my opinion and based on only my experience with how an engines lubricating system functions.
Wow, that's quite the write up. I think I might do it that way. Thanks Gardog!
I have no problem spending the extra to make sure all is well. I am most worried about it eating up the cam chain guide.
I have no problem spending the extra to make sure all is well. I am most worried about it eating up the cam chain guide.
Speed...as far as the cam chain guide goes....
those things are apparently bulletproof...
at least mine appear to be.
I say this because when I opened the case to put the new oil pump in...
after finding out both cams were wiped, after the oil screen imploded...
I noticed the the intermediate cam chain was stretched and a couple of the links had broken.
I call them links, but actually each link is made of either 4 or 5...
or 3 or 4 separate pieces.
unlike a bicycle chain where there are always 2 sides to each link and one link fits inside the other...
if one has four pieces the other has five or 3 and 4 I can't remember...
anyway at least two of those were broken and rubbing on the chain guide....
it barely scratched the guide....
so i reused it...
If it had been a high dollar BBK I would've ordered a new one but it's only a stocker so I left it.
Even if they wear a little the slack adjuster will make up for it, and the next time you have the head cover off pull em out and check em...
JMHO...Ed3
those things are apparently bulletproof...
at least mine appear to be.
I say this because when I opened the case to put the new oil pump in...
after finding out both cams were wiped, after the oil screen imploded...
I noticed the the intermediate cam chain was stretched and a couple of the links had broken.
I call them links, but actually each link is made of either 4 or 5...
or 3 or 4 separate pieces.
unlike a bicycle chain where there are always 2 sides to each link and one link fits inside the other...
if one has four pieces the other has five or 3 and 4 I can't remember...
anyway at least two of those were broken and rubbing on the chain guide....
it barely scratched the guide....
so i reused it...
If it had been a high dollar BBK I would've ordered a new one but it's only a stocker so I left it.
Even if they wear a little the slack adjuster will make up for it, and the next time you have the head cover off pull em out and check em...
JMHO...Ed3
Id be nervous of running it to flush it out, Thats just going to spread the sand around. It will chew up your oil pump and could make the oil pressure relief valve stick open. I know it sucks but I think I would remove the flywheel cover and output shaft and flush out with a solvent for a bit, then do some oil changes.
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
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