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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello forum,
Just joined and have a few questions about my prairie 360 4x4. It is an '07, bone stock with CVK 34 Carb. Very low hours (maybe 25), never swamped, just your basic little rider/plower. Going through check list to get ready for winter snow plowing/riding, I noticed a bad hesitation from 0 to 1/4 throttle. Most times the atv will die out. It is running very rich (loaded up plug, very black and sooty with black smoke from exhaust). The choke is not stuck. The float level is correct. I drilled out the pilot screw plug and found the plug to be at factory setting (1 1/2 turns.) With choke off and running at operating temperature, the Atv idles perfectly, although a little high. If I try to adjust the large idle screw to lower rpms, the machine will die. When I get it to idle at it's lowest point, I try to adjust the pilot screw with no results. Turning in does not lower rpms, stumble, etc. Turning out does nothing either. I purchased an EZ-Just pilot screw from CVPerformance and am about to install. Does anyone know if a smaller/larger pilot screw will help my off-idle issue. The carb will be cleaned thoroughly before reassembly. Also, are the choke and throttle cables pretty straightforward to detach/attach. Anything I need to look for while disassembling? I know it's a lot of info, but wanted to try to cover all the bases so you folks can hopefully help me get this little monster running correctly. ANY help is more than appreciated! Thanks!
 

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i remember reading about a 360 that something came out of the carb and was dumping fuel into the engine, this sounds like your issue.
 

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of course i cant find the thread now. but basic engine/carb troubleshooting is if it was running good before and now it isnt, its not an adjustment or jets, those dont have the ability to change themselves and if you mess with it you are likely to have two problems instead of just one.
 

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Going by what you said in the original post; it sounds like you haven't had the 360 out riding since last winter. If that's the case, then the carbs are seriously gummed up.
 

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Just like Novakaw said gummed up carbs. Try running seafoam through a fresh tank of gas,and if that don't clear it up,well then remove the carb and clean the jets,carb,and passages.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the feedback, guys. I'll keep you posted on the progress. The carbs will be getting a good cleaning. Has anyone used the EZ-Just pilot screw from CVPerformance? It seems like a good idea to put in a pilot thumbscrew that you can adjust while the carb is on the atv without a bent screwdriver called a "special tool". As long as it seats correctly and doesn't move when adjusted properly. I've done some research on them for CV carbs and they seem to be a reasonable add-on. Anyone have any input?
 

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Thanks for the feedback, guys. I'll keep you posted on the progress. The carbs will be getting a good cleaning. Has anyone used the EZ-Just pilot screw from CVPerformance? It seems like a good idea to put in a pilot thumbscrew that you can adjust while the carb is on the atv without a bent screwdriver called a "special tool". As long as it seats correctly and doesn't move when adjusted properly. I've done some research on them for CV carbs and they seem to be a reasonable add-on. Anyone have any input?
How long did the machine sit without running?
Did it run good before it sat?
If so, a gummed up carb is the answer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It sat for the better part of a year. Even though I used ethanol treatment, I'm sure the carb is gummed up. When I took the float bowl off, it reeked of turpentine. I'm guessing the ports/jets are gummed up as well and that's what is causing the load up. The 360 ran pretty good before I put it away at the end of last winter, so I'm really hesitant to try to tune something that I feel really doesn't need it. Just want to make sure I don't get over my head with detaching the choke and throttle. Are they pretty straightforward to take off so I can get the carb off the atv? Thanks for the info, guys.
 

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Good decision not to tune; it doesn't need it.
I've never had the carb off a 360, but I don't think it's complicated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks NovaKaw, I'm sure I can get through it. Just wondering if they're are any little surprises (springs, washers, etc.) that may come flying off when I detach the cables. Guess I'll keep my eyes wide open when I do it:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well, got the carb off the prairie today, not too much to the choke and throttle detachment. Took top and bottom end of carb apart (all jets, needles, screw, diaphragm, etc.) and cleaned everything top to bottom with carb cleaner. Used compressed air and let air dry as well, reassembled, reattached, started the prairie up, and same result. Runs well on choke. Comes up to temperature with choke off and idles just a bit high. Touch the throttle and "blah", it dies. This is getting frustrating. Anyone with any other ideas out there. Is there a "factory preset" for the large idle screw, even though I'm pretty sure I haven't turned it more than one full turn in or out. Thanks all!
 

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The air filter box is fully assembled and in place?
The setting for the large idle screw is wherever it needs to be to idle.
Make sure the diaphragm and slide is opening when you open the throttle.
If the slide is working, then the carb is still gummed up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The air filter box is fully assembled and in place?
The setting for the large idle screw is wherever it needs to be to idle.
Make sure the diaphragm and slide is opening when you open the throttle.
If the slide is working, then the carb is still gummed up.
The airbox is fully assembled and in place. Everything is tight, intact and as it should be. I can guarantee the carb is spotless from top to bottom. How am I to check to see if the slide is opening. Looking through the airbox side of the carb when running? Thanks NovaKaw...I know I'll get to the bottom of this sooner or later..Hopefully sooner...It's getting cold out here...snow is on the way.
 

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The air filter box is fully assembled and in place?
The setting for the large idle screw is wherever it needs to be to idle.
Make sure the diaphragm and slide is opening when you open the throttle.
If the slide is working, then the carb is still gummed up.
The airbox is fully assembled and in place. Everything is tight, intact and as it should be. I can guarantee the carb is spotless from top to bottom. How am I to check to see if the slide is opening. Looking through the airbox side of the carb when running? Thanks NovaKaw...I know I'll get to the bottom of this sooner or later..Hopefully sooner...It's getting cold out here...snow is on the way.
That's right. I don't know how hard it is to see through on a 360, but you need to see if the slide opens as you gently open the throttle.
Before you check, will it take throttle if you leave the choke on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The air filter box is fully assembled and in place?
The setting for the large idle screw is wherever it needs to be to idle.
Make sure the diaphragm and slide is opening when you open the throttle.
If the slide is working, then the carb is still gummed up.
The airbox is fully assembled and in place. Everything is tight, intact and as it should be. I can guarantee the carb is spotless from top to bottom. How am I to check to see if the slide is opening. Looking through the airbox side of the carb when running? Thanks NovaKaw...I know I'll get to the bottom of this sooner or later..Hopefully sooner...It's getting cold out here...snow is on the way.
That's right. I don't know how hard it is to see through on a 360, but you need to see if the slide opens as you gently open the throttle.
Before you check, will it take throttle if you leave the choke on?
It will take a little throttle if I leave the choke on. When it comes up to temp. it will idle just a bit high but without ANY hesitation whatsoever. Touch the throttle and it bogs down, usually dying out. I'll try to get a mirror in to check the slide tomorrow. I really need this 0 to 1/4 throttle response for rolling starts/reverse while plowing. Would shimming the needle a little do anything good, bad, or indifferent? Just thinkin of some different scenarios.
 

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The airbox is fully assembled and in place. Everything is tight, intact and as it should be. I can guarantee the carb is spotless from top to bottom. How am I to check to see if the slide is opening. Looking through the airbox side of the carb when running? Thanks NovaKaw...I know I'll get to the bottom of this sooner or later..Hopefully sooner...It's getting cold out here...snow is on the way.
That's right. I don't know how hard it is to see through on a 360, but you need to see if the slide opens as you gently open the throttle.
Before you check, will it take throttle if you leave the choke on?
It will take a little throttle if I leave the choke on. When it comes up to temp. it will idle just a bit high but without ANY hesitation whatsoever. Touch the throttle and it bogs down, usually dying out. I'll try to get a mirror in to check the slide tomorrow. I really need this 0 to 1/4 throttle response for rolling starts/reverse while plowing. Would shimming the needle a little do anything good, bad, or indifferent? Just thinkin of some different scenarios.
It ran well before, so it's not a tuning issue. Other than opening the pilot screw to 3 turns, you shouldn't have to do anything.
Make sure the slide is responding when you open the throttle, and if it is, then there's still a problem in the carb. It still has a circuit gummed up somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
NovaKaw, checked the slide while running the engine. It vibrates as soon as I give it a bit of throttle up and down along with the engine speed, stuttering with the rpms. If I can get the rpms past the stutter, I can see the slide respond and pull itself and the needle upwards and gas comes in through the main jet like crazy and "zoom", it screams like brand new. Put a new plug in just for sh$%ts and giggles, did not make a difference. Pulled the plug and just what I thought, loaded up black and sooty. This thing is running WAY TOO rich. I'm tearing the carb off again just to look over again since I'm getting really good at it! As per your last post, while idling with choke on, the 360 will NOT take throttle, just the same as if it is warmed up and off choke. Any thoughts other than gummed up carb? Thanks.
 

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like i said on my first posts if the plugs is black its running rich and nothing to do with cleaning jets or adjustments. did you see if you have all the parts you are supposed to? should be a break down of parts if you go to kawi site and go to owner info/partsdiagrams
 

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like i said on my first posts if the plugs is black its running rich and nothing to do with cleaning jets or adjustments. did you see if you have all the parts you are supposed to? should be a break down of parts if you go to kawi site and go to owner info/partsdiagrams
It worked when it was put away, and didn't work when put back in service.

smurran, the slide sounds like it's working right.
Any chance the choke is sticking on?
Check the slide needle to make sure it's fully bottomed out in the slide.
You could take the pilot screw in to 1.5 turns, although that wouldn't pull out enough fuel if it's as rich as you say.
 
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