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Interesting topic as I have a 2003 360. My problem is that when I come to a stop engine will just die. Starts back up no problem. Took my carb out and cleaned. Blew out passages. Reinstalled. Started it up and would do same thing your experiencing, idle fine, give gas and die. No smoke in my case. Carb position not friendly for trying to adjust set screw. At last resort decided to try something. Started engine, put choke on about half way so I could get engine revved up. Raced engine this way wide open a few times and they with engine revving slowly back off choke. I'm guessing there must have been something in a passage somewhere as engine started running normal without choke on. That problem is out of way but still have to find out what is causing engine to die when coming to a stop.
 

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Interesting topic as I have a 2003 360. My problem is that when I come to a stop engine will just die. Starts back up no problem. Took my carb out and cleaned. Blew out passages. Reinstalled. Started it up and would do same thing your experiencing, idle fine, give gas and die. No smoke in my case. Carb position not friendly for trying to adjust set screw. At last resort decided to try something. Started engine, put choke on about half way so I could get engine revved up. Raced engine this way wide open a few times and they with engine revving slowly back off choke. I'm guessing there must have been something in a passage somewhere as engine started running normal without choke on. That problem is out of way but still have to find out what is causing engine to die when coming to a stop.
You were right; there was a tiny bit of dirt that cleared.
Regarding stalling; have you checked the valve clearance? Stalling is a symptom.
 

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Cottonmouthsc sounds like Ur valves need to be adjusted. Also Smurren just because your bike was sittin for a while it would be a good idea for you to adjust your valves also. It might help out Ur idle. For my 360 I have to adjust them once a year
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
Thanks for the info, guys. I was looking at a diagram of a CVK carb from a Kawi parts catalog and am thinking that there is a part missing. See if you can follow me on this one: When you remove the main jet and main jet tube there should be a small #6 needle jet that sits on top of it that the jet needle from the top of the carb rides in before going down into the main jet tube. My carb does not have one of these, and believe me I would not have lost it during disassembly/assembly as I use a deep dish pan at my table to prevent this kind of thing from happening. Could this have been missed during fabrication of the carb? My buddy used to tell me he heard horror stories of the Prairie 360, but I thought he was just ragging on me for buying one. I'm going to the Kawi dealer tomorrow to see if they have one in stock. Looks like a $25 part online. Compared to all the other carb parts on the diagram, it's pretty expensive. Do you think it's because some of/ all of these carbs are missing this and parts dealers know that eventually you will need one? Lastly, could lack of this needle jet be causing the extreme rich issue I've been experiencing?
 

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Thanks for the info, guys. I was looking at a diagram of a CVK carb from a Kawi parts catalog and am thinking that there is a part missing. See if you can follow me on this one: When you remove the main jet and main jet tube there should be a small #6 needle jet that sits on top of it that the jet needle from the top of the carb rides in before going down into the main jet tube. My carb does not have one of these, and believe me I would not have lost it during disassembly/assembly as I use a deep dish pan at my table to prevent this kind of thing from happening. Could this have been missed during fabrication of the carb? My buddy used to tell me he heard horror stories of the Prairie 360, but I thought he was just ragging on me for buying one. I'm going to the Kawi dealer tomorrow to see if they have one in stock. Looks like a $25 part online. Compared to all the other carb parts on the diagram, it's pretty expensive. Do you think it's because some of/ all of these carbs are missing this and parts dealers know that eventually you will need one? Lastly, could lack of this needle jet be causing the extreme rich issue I've been experiencing?
It worked good before, so how is it that this part could have been missing all along, unless it was lost during dis-assembly?
 

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NovaKawa650/360Kawi,
Thanks for the reply. Will have to look into that valve clearance. In past have had it done at dealer. Local dealer closed up few years back. Nearest dealer now 2 hours one way. Never have tried doing it myself. Have tools and feeler gauge. Will I need a new gasket for cover? Other than letting engine warm up first, what else do I need to be on the look out for?
 

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Thanks for the info, guys. I was looking at a diagram of a CVK carb from a Kawi parts catalog and am thinking that there is a part missing. See if you can follow me on this one: When you remove the main jet and main jet tube there should be a small #6 needle jet that sits on top of it that the jet needle from the top of the carb rides in before going down into the main jet tube. My carb does not have one of these, and believe me I would not have lost it during disassembly/assembly as I use a deep dish pan at my table to prevent this kind of thing from happening. Could this have been missed during fabrication of the carb? My buddy used to tell me he heard horror stories of the Prairie 360, but I thought he was just ragging on me for buying one. I'm going to the Kawi dealer tomorrow to see if they have one in stock. Looks like a $25 part online. Compared to all the other carb parts on the diagram, it's pretty expensive. Do you think it's because some of/ all of these carbs are missing this and parts dealers know that eventually you will need one? Lastly, could lack of this needle jet be causing the extreme rich issue I've been experiencing?
It worked good before, so how is it that this part could have been missing all along, unless it was lost during dis-assembly?

i wish i could find the thread but like i said i remember two 360's that ran good and at some point some part came off the carb and then was way rich. if you find out thats what it is please post so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 · (Edited)
VTwinKawi,

After reading you're first post in this thread, I believe you may be right. The needle jet is pressed in by the emulsion tube. If that isn't present, a LOT of fuel will dump into the engine. Although my atv ran pretty good before, it has always had some kind of throttle response issue. I don't know if the needle jet can come out by itself (via vacuum pressure, vibration, etc.) but it is not in my carb and was not there when I first took apart the carb. A local bike shop verified that they had run across this just a few times with the same carb on different models. Earlier Yamaha sleds had the same carb as I am told by them. I have one on order through them and will keep you posted with the results. Sorry I skipped over your earlier post, but it's good to know that someone else knows/has heard of this issue. BTW, if you find the thread you're talking about, please post the link. Would love to read it!
 

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I know this is an old post, adjust your valves..it will fix that cannot idle right issue. I have a 2007 that had the same idling issue like yours and didn't want to adjust valves. The adjustment is easy but getting to the valves... You don't need gaskets. Its all. O rings on a 360.
 

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BLUF: If an erratic or fluctuating idle persists after eliminating fuel, air intake, and carburetor issues, check and adjust the intake and exhaust value clearances.

From the Manual:
Per the 11th Ed. Mar. 3, 2011 Kawasaki Prairie 360 4x4 All Terrain Vehicle Service Manual, valve clearance adjustment is a periodic maintenance item. Clearances are recommended to be checked every 1100 miles, or when belt indicator light comes on (100 hours) whichever comes first. From my personal experience valve clearance adjustment was necessary to fix an erratic idle issue.

Specs. for 360 Prairie/KVF 360,

Intake valve clearance: .0032-.0051 in, when cold

Exhaust valve clearance: .0059-.0079 in, when cold


If adjustment is required, torque valve adjusting screw locknuts to 12 N-m or 104 in-lb for KVF 360-A1/C1-A6/C6 or to 8.8 N-m or 78 in-lb for KVF 360 A7/C7. The cap (cover) bolts are to be torqued to 8.8 N-m or 78 in-lb.

Backstory:
2004 Prairie 360 exhibited the following symptoms:

-Hard to start

-Cold natured, would not idle cold without choke

-Idle adjustment screw set for cold idle would not allow engine to idle when hot and vice-versa

-Engine would stall after full throttle operation and coming to a complete stop; backfired occasionally, and was hard to start afterwards


The above symptoms persisted after the following was done, not necessarily in the order listed:

-Fuel tank cleaning

-Fuel tank petcock replacement

-Fuel line replacement

-Air filter replacement

-Carb boots replaced

-Carb ultrasonically cleaned and dipped in ChemDip

-Carb overhauled and new pilot screw turned out 1 1/2 turns.

-Aftermarket carb installed (later removed and replaced with original due to lack of high-end power)

-New spark plug

After the above actions failed to resolve the problem. I checked the valve clearances with feeler gauges.

Checking valve clearances showed intake valve clearance at .0015 inches, which was about 1/3 of the minimum spec. Exhaust valve clearance measured .003 inches which was also about half the minimum.

The problem was completely resolved after adjusting the intake valve clearance to .005 in and the exhaust valve clearance to .008 in.

Underlying Cause:

Valves and valve seats wear over time and the clearance between the valve stem and the rocker arm decreases. My understanding is that the reason that there is a gap between the valve stem and the rocker arm valve clearance adjusting screw is that this gap decreases every time you run the engine when the metal expands as the engine temperature increases. If the gap is insufficient it can completely close. When that happens, the valve adjustment screw on the rocker arm can hold the valve off of the seat, which means that the valves are not completely closed when they should be. On the intake side, this can cause high pressure gases to leak past the intake valve and back into the carburetor which can cause problems. In my case, I did not have notable issues at high RPM, only at idle. Once the valves clearances were in spec, I had no further idle issues. Much needs to be removed in order to get to the valves, so plan on spending a couple of hours on this job if you decide to tackle it and I recommend downloading a copy of the service manual.
 
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