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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
got home today and went to move the brute and started turning it over and it stopped turning over. pressed the green button ... nothing.

changed the starter.--- nothing
changed the starter solonoid ---nothing
looked at fuses ---all good
checked neutral switch --good
checked brake switch -- good

did notice on my moose module that when i turn the key on the little green light on the moose module dosnt turn on at all. it alsways turned on before. tried taking the module out and using stock cdi nothing so basically when i turn my key on im not getting any power to the cdi, i tried looking in the brute manual but cant find what wire brings the power to the cdi and where it come from the key switch.. what a nightmare

im out of things to look at can somebody give me a clue on where to start looking

thanks
 

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Brown is the power wire for the bike. Is the display working when you turn the ignition?
 

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I don't see where you mentioned battery. Did you try and jump it from a car or truck battery?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
tried a brand new battery, and tried to jump it also. battery is good. display is working, winch works, belt actuator buzzes on and buzzes off when you turn the key off. basically when i turn my key on im not getting any power to the cdi. every other electric component works on the machine. where does the brown wire come from that goes into the cdi.
 

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The brown wire is routed through the engine stop switch.

Just a question: did ya check the little red bugger on the left handlebar? It's got more than one of us ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
the red switch is on made sure of that. just took the cdi out and switched it with a brand new one on it didnt work. by accident forgot to put cdi back in and pressed green button and bike turned over a couple of cranks is this normal? also i checked if i was getting power through the brown wire at the cdi connector and its got battery voltage so it is getting power. something is just not letting it start. how do i check if the rolover sensor is working. and can you bypass it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
would the vehicle down sensor cause these problems?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
gonna swap that part for a new one tommorow and see if that works. got a doner brute next door so any other parts that i might want to pick up for this job? ive already swapped the ignition solonoid, battery, cdi, voltage regulator,
anything else anybody can think of before i burn this thing
 

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That manual link I posted is missing section for testing. Here is a text copy of what I have.

Vehicle-down Sensor Output Voltage Remove the vehicle-down sensor (see Vehicle-down
Sensor Removal). Connect the vehicle-down sensor [A] to the connector of
the harness. Hold the sensor almost vertical with the arrow mark
pointed up. Connect:
Vehicle-down Sensor Lead Connector [C]
Digital Volt Meter [D]
Needle Adapters [E]
Special Tool - Needle Adapter Set: 57001-1457
Connection to Connector (5 V circuit)
Meter (+) Connector Y/G Lead [F]
Meter (–) Connector BK/Y Lead [G] Turn the ignition switch ON, and measure the output voltage
with the connector joined.
Vehicle-down Sensor Power Output Voltage
Standard: 0.4 1.4 V (with sensor arrow mark
pointed up)
Tilt the sensor 60 70° or more [H] right or left, and measure
the output voltage.
The time lag is from 0.5 to 1 second.
Vehicle-down Sensor Power Output Voltage
Standard: 3.7 4.4 V (with sensor tilted 60 70° or
more, right or left)
If the output voltage is out of the specified, replace the
vehicle-down sensor.
 

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Check simple first........

Make sure you are in neutral when trying to start. Try holding the right hand brake in while starting. Might be a problem with the switches on the shifter and or hand brake..........The switches might test good but the positioning of them may not be correct.........
 

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Yeah sometimes even in neutral green light on I have to hold hand brake but you would think that was tried a long time ago. Don't forget the kill switch also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
swapped out the vehicle down sensor, nothing tested both of them and they were both good. also checked neutral switch good and brake switch good. tried starting it with the break on. nothing im running out of things to check i dont think there is any more components to the ignition system that would cause this, every other component works on the bike. when i turn the key on everything works except the light on the moose module and the green button to start motor. I checked the start button and it checks out ok and the kill switch works ok as per manual testing procedures and wiring diagram. what other components of the ignigion system is there. Im out of ideas
 

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No offense friend, but you need to learn to test parts before replacing them. It sounds really foolish to replace a starter without testing to see if you are even getting voltage to it. Go to sears and but a multimeter, you only need a cheapo, maybe $20. They're not hard to use, once you figure them out, you will keep on near you at all times.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
i didnt go out and buy a new starter. and I do have a multi meter and have used it. to check almost every item that i have stated in this thread. I am not very good at reading wiring diagrams so im not sure what exact wires control the ignition system. as i stated before everything checks out ok. i i could only find out what wire gives the moose module the power for the light on it i would be golden. then i woruld have a new spot to start. if anybody has a moose module they know that when you turn the key on the light turns on. mine dosnt and then all my problems started.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
just printed off the whole wiring diagram and went out and tested the ignition system diagram and the electric starter diagram. havnt found a broken wire yet tested all the main wires, power from the key is good vehicle down sensor is getting power and is grounded. and the wire leading from the vehicle down sensor has continuity to the cdi. all wires to the fuses are good when key is on they have battery voltage. white and red wires comming from battery to fuses have power. havnt checked the RESET CONNECTOR im not to sure what that is in the diagram it has a yellow/black , brown, and red/white wire going to it and the red/white and the yellow black both go to the cdi. what does the reset connector look like? it dosnt say anything about it in the manual
 

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Don't know what year or model yours is but earlier 05-06 models had issues with buss connectors.

K-TECH NEWS Vol #18 Issue 1 2005
KVF750 Connector Corrosion Creates Electrical Havoc

Do you have a KVF750 exhibiting strange electrical problems? There have been reports of some very strange electrical symptoms that can be difficult to diagnose.
Typical symptoms are listed below in the order from most common to the least common:

1. Fan does not activate and the engine overheats
2. Meter stays on and the battery goes dead
3. Fuse keeps blowing
4. Engine stalls when 4wd is engaged and does not restart, but it restarts in 2wd.
5. Engine starts without ignition key (when just green button is pressed).
6. Check belt light is flashing.

The cause for these symptoms can be often traced to corrosion forming inside one of the two white plastic 1"x1-1/4"x3/8" joint (BUS) connectors that are taped to the main wiring harness. There is one under the front fender between the front shock towers and another one under the rear fender near the fuel tank.
So far the problem has ocurred only on the rear connector. More specifically, the rear connector/harness is attached to the tube frame just to the right side of igniter/control unit area. If you pry open the cap of the connector, you may find greenish corrosion (electrolysis) formed inside between the bare metal contacts. The electrolysis occurs within the connector because there are positive and negative wire terminals joined together without any barrier to seperate them. On the rear connector the white wires are always on (+), the brown wires are ignition on (+) and the black/yellow wires are ground (-).
If your customers ride in deep water or somehow cause water intrusion into this connector, a special prevention is required because the problem could repeat. After cleaning up the corrosion or the main harness is replaced (because the connector itself is not available seperate), some dielectric grease should be applied inside the connector and it should be well sealed to prevent further moisture intrusion. The ultimate repair is to remove all of the black/yellow ground wires, solder them together and seal them separately from the connector.

If you want to do the front one first it will be easier to get to and it will help you locate the back one because it is the same connector and you will know what you are looking for. If you look under the right front fender directly behind the top of the shock, you will see the main wire harness. Where it bends around the frame, follow it with your hand, right past the bend wrapped in electrical tape you will feel it attached to the wire harness. Its the size of a small skinny matchbox.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
got home today after studying the wiring diagram and was thinking about the moose module's light not turning on. thought maybee the ground was bad from the cdi. it was replaced it with a new ground cable to the frame. and the light turned back on. pressed green button nothing. checked the black yellow and black connections at the starter relay. bad ground also, changed that and bike fired up like nothing at all. gonna redoo the buss connectors tommorow and maybee route those connections into a good spot under the seat for easier access. but problem is solved and brute is back in action. has anybody rerouted their buss connectors connections under the seat? thanks guys for helping me out along the way
 

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Glad you figured it out. I sealed my buss connectors with liquid tape when I first bought mine. Its a pain pealing it off if you need to get inside so not sure its best thing to do but never had a electrical issue. But I do live in a dry climate also.
 
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