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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All, I finished up my Prairie 400 restore and this is my next project.. It is a 2006 Kawasaki Prairie KVF700D 4X4 Mean Green Special Edition. I got this for next to nothing , it is in really rough shape. The current owner stated that the engine is seized and he only rode it twice after putting on brand new tires. It has been sitting in the yard under a tarp for more than two years.. Here it is when I brought it home. Actually in those photos I had already removed the recoil starter cover and put a 19MM socket on the bolt with a breaker bar to gently see if the motor was seized. I got lucky it is not seized and moves like it should until you start to feel it bind. If I am lucky this could be a timing chain or dropped valve. I will start tearing it down..
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok, I took off the Rear Head first and found a broken timing chain and the piston had hit the intake valves.. The Intake valves are just a little stuck open and binding. The top of the piston looks fine. I then removed the cylinder. They cylinder looks to be in great condition, but I am not sure if these are factory pistons.. I took off the front head and everything looks great. Took off the front cylinder and it looks great. I then checked the connecting rod on the rear cylinder, it feels nice and tight with no play when pulling it straight up and down and moves smoothly like it should on the crank shaft. Then I checked the front connecting rod and there is a slight amount of play when moving it up and down.. I do not think that is a good sign.. Ok, this where I need advice and help.. I have never done anything other than rings or valves in these type engines.. Everything in the bottom end has always been great. So I am guessing I need a valve job with new Valves, springs, Etc.. All timing Chains replaced. I will check the cam for tolerances as well as the other head parts to see if they need to be replaced. So here is my question. I would like to know since the front cylinder connecting rod has a little play in it on the crank, can I just replace the connecting rod bearings on the front cylinder without splitting the crankcase? Everything else seems great with no play in the bottom end.Other than rod bearings should I be replacing anything else on the bottom end? Are these known for wearing out parts on the bottom end? If this was your engine what would you do? Thanks for any help...
 

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there is a crank diameter check, to see if its good. mine wasent but the bearing was spun for a while so it had a bunch of abrasions
 

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Discussion Starter #6
there is a crank diameter check, to see if its good. mine wasent but the bearing was spun for a while so it had a bunch of abrasions
Ok, so if I check the crank diameter and it is within spec with not scratches then I can put in the new connecting rod bearings without splitting the crankcase?
 

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should be good if it measures more
 

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Thanks for sharing tis progress. I live for this sh_t.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Had some time today. I removed the Pistons and first the rear connecting rod. The connecting rod bearings were worn but both the connecting rod and crankshaft looked good. Then I removed the front connecting rod.... Wow.... The connecting rod bearing not only spun but one half went inside the other half and the crankshaft is pretty scored. You can see in the photos. So I am guessing I need to replace the crank... Am I correct? Even if it could be machined the cost would not be far off from a new Hot Rod Crank... I see Hot Rod has a whole bottom end kit for $800.... I am ready for some input .. Thanks for any help..
 

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mine looked like that too, not going to be good if its scored, you have to get anew one probably. the tool to take the flywheel off make sure you protect the end of the crank
 

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Damn those bearings are toast.
 

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Discussion Starter #15

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I second revzcycles. Ask for Bobby Beam.
 

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i just got another oem one was like 380, the original one lasted a ton of abuse for almost 5 thousand miles of hauling wood, ton of mud, probably 10 for anyone else
 

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your best bet is to use a re manufactured crank and rods. they're resized to fit automotive bearings, which are more reliable than the factory bearings. Hot Rods would be my last option.

https://revzcycles.com/shop?olsPage=products/brute-force-750-remanufactured-crankshaft-kit
That Brute Force 750 crank is the correct one for my Prairie 700?

Is that your company?
No, it's not my company. 700 and 750 use the same crank. I've rebuilt a few of these engines. I've used factory parts in a few, and re manufactured cranks in a few. In my opinion, there is no question on which is better. Re manufactured cranks with Automotive Rod bearings are far better quality. The weakest part of a factory Brute Force are the Rod bearings. they are soft. I consider the automotive bearings an upgrade, and you can't beat the price. Revz is located in either Alabama or Florida, I'm not positive, but its in your neck of the woods. It's the best place for you to get your parts. Get in touch with them.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
your best bet is to use a re manufactured crank and rods. they're resized to fit automotive bearings, which are more reliable than the factory bearings. Hot Rods would be my last option.

https://revzcycles.com/shop?olsPage=products/brute-force-750-remanufactured-crankshaft-kit
That Brute Force 750 crank is the correct one for my Prairie 700?

Is that your company?
No, it's not my company. 700 and 750 use the same crank. I've rebuilt a few of these engines. I've used factory parts in a few, and re manufactured cranks in a few. In my opinion, there is no question on which is better. Re manufactured cranks with Automotive Rod bearings are far better quality. The weakest part of a factory Brute Force are the Rod bearings. they are soft. I consider the automotive bearings an upgrade, and you can't beat the price. Revz is located in either Alabama or Florida, I'm not positive, but its in your neck of the woods. It's the best place for you to get your parts. Get in touch with them.


After a little research I will definitely be going with Revs.. Thanks :)
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Hi All, Found some time today to finish stripping down the engine.. I am ready to split the case. The case is splitting easily but It seems to be hung up behind where the oil fill plate is located.. I had taken out the 4 bolts. Look at the photo and tell me how to get that apart. I have looked through the service manual many times and can't even find a reference to those four bolts and area. Thanks for any help..
 

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