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Shock Assembly on Rear Frame Failure - Poor design flaw

19K views 54 replies 22 participants last post by  cguyotm 
#1 ·
2016 Kawasaki Pro Mule FXT EPS LE

I purchased this Pro Mule from the dealership with 4" lift kit and tire kit

A couple days ago I was driving over a hill and as I came back up the other side the frame cross member that holds the shocks failed and broke both shocks.

Has anyone else heard of this or had this issue?

My dealership called Kawasaki USA and they said that it has happened to several with lift kits.

Problem is I have to fabricate a new cross member as the stock frame is weak and will break again.

Anyone give me any help?

Thanks,

J.J.
 
#36 ·
I looked at your pictures. That first picture shows a lift kit installed completely improperly. Maybe I am not seeing something but that kit is either a horrible design or you installed it improperly. That kit installed that way would bend any cross member with that geometry. Make sure you properly install the kit after you repair it.
 
#37 ·
It's not installed wrong. That is exactly how it's suppose to be. We went through this on the mule page on Facebook as well. That is the catvos rear shock relocation bracket. Not to be confused with highlifter or anybody else. The catvos setup has 3 brackets rather then 2. The third bracket extends out the back like that so when you flip your rear a arms your top shock mount lines up correctly.

This pic below is the catvos lift. The set of 3 brackets together is the rear kit. Seeing it will make total sense
 
#39 ·
Yup, it's a junk design. DTCooper fixed it correctly.
I was looking at his post on facebook and anyone who flips the rear A-arms should either relocate the cross member or brace it to account for the rotational forces.
I'm not sure that you will be able to save your rear shocks though, once they are bent you may snap them if you try to straighten them or they may bind and take out the seals.
Good luck though.
 
#44 ·
The design of relocating the shocks outside the original mount, is definitely the problem. Keep in mind All the weight of the unit, and its contents are on the shock spring setup. When you move the load support back behind the original location and just extend bolts with some plates, it is actually acting like a prybar onto the original mount. Basically intensifying the load on the original mount substantially. If you relocate the original mounting point to house the shocks back to where they extended to, it should be fine. Keep in mind that the original mount still would've had less weight , because it was more forward to throw some weight up to the front tires.
 
#45 ·
Based on the pics I think I have the same lift kit as shown in the damage photos as supplied by the OP. The placement of the rear kit bracket is correct per the instructions in my kit and the forward bracket is supposed to be on the inside of the front edge of the original mount. There is supposed to be bushings that fit on the top bolts that would provide a lot of strength/support from the inside of the front aftermarket bracket to the rear original bracket. You can see the large washer on the back side of the aftermarket bracket; the bolt is quite robust and when torqued the overall assembly should be a lot stronger than the OEM set up (just as long as one or both of the bushings were not left out). If one or more of the bushings are left out the whole set up would be compromised.
I have looked mine over very closely after seeing this post and everything is perfectly straight - my kit has been on for over 400 miles of moderate to harsh use and two full moose with three to four 200 lb men have been transported out of the bush on different trips. My MBH tires are not as aggressive, I have a soft top roof and OEM springs.
Kent, if you could comment on the bushings it would be appreciated.
As for the dealer not backing you up - total BS. If you ordered the lift kit as part of the deal they should have provided you with a warranty disclaimer with the original bill of sale. If the lift kit was pre-installed by them they are totally liable since it was them who voided your warranty. If they failed to install the bushing then they are totally at fault.
Totally sucks that you are in this bind, mind you it looks like the "fix" will prevent any repeats of this issue.
 
#53 ·
I think I may have a solution to the weak shock mounts on the Mule Pro FXT. I have a GBR 4” lift on my Dirtbus, (FXT EPS LE). I ordered Elka Stage 2 for all four corners. Elka states they must be used without lift kit as it voids their warranty. The shocks DO provide the needed lift for m tires. The brackets are thick metal plates that move the top of the shock mounting outboard to a new location on brackets. The old holes where the tops of shocks were mounted were used to mount the 4” bracket lift. Well when my Elka’s come, I will leave the bracket lift in place for additional mounting strength, but move the top mounting of new Elka’s back to original mounting holes where bracket mounts to vehicle. I will post after install.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
 
#54 ·
I think I may have a solution to the weak shock mounts on the Mule Pro FXT. I have a GBR 4” lift on my Dirtbus, (FXT EPS LE). I ordered Elka Stage 2 for all four corners. Elka states they must be used without lift kit as it voids their warranty. The shocks DO provide the needed lift for m tires. The brackets are thick metal plates that move the top of the shock mounting outboard to a new location on brackets. The old holes where the tops of shocks were mounted were used to mount the 4” bracket lift. Well when my Elka’s come, I will leave the bracket lift in place for additional mounting strength, but move the top mounting of new Elka’s back to original mounting holes where bracket mounts to vehicle. I will post after install.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
I took a piece of sch 80 1" square tubing and drove it through the inside of the crossmember with a 2lb sledge and welded it on each end. I think that will solve the issue, time will tell, but it was easy, and looks clean!
 
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