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I ordered a new frame and parts for my I-Hit-A-Tree and screwed the frame 2007 KFX. I have downloaded the Service manual and mentally prepared myself for another rebuild and now I would like advice. Of those who have swapped frames on the V-Force, what would you do differently? Are there OEM parts that I should replace while I am tearing it down because they are weak and there is a better way?

I am sure that as I tear it down some questions will arise and hopefully I can count on the collective wisdom of this forum to get me through. I also have my Flip camera and a digital one to catalog the disassembly and re-assembly as well.
 

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put some gussets on the frame. If you have a PRM Cargo Rack, beef up the rear subframe!!
 

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If I was you, I'd powdercoat, polish and chrome everything. :lol:
 

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Next time hit the tree at around a 45 degree angle and you will do alot less damage. Plus don't let it roll down a hill or on top of you. I would also do the gussets while it is wide open.
 

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Have it powdercoated, you'll appreciate that after the fact..

oh wait, you were looking for safety issues...

many say gusset, not necessary unless you do some crazy riding. Swapping from frame to frame really isn't as big of a deal as it seems.
 

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Do I have to post pictures of my quad when I hit two trees, almost taking one down. LoL

If they are still around, and even though I absolutely hate them with a passion and i know they have ripped others off as well... Check into Werkz Racing gusseting the frame, or someone that can do the same type of guessts and welding experience.

They gussetted my frame. They had cut the front off and rewelded it on. What you would think is a weak point. The first tree the quad hit center, the second was hit I guess as it spun around.

I will swear to you even now, that the frame isn't that badly damaged as you would expect. And people have bent the frames just from rolling over or jumping the machine. The tubes in the front are crushed and slightly twisted, but if you saw the pics, you would expect way worse.

Gusset it up. get it powder coated.. Clear coat isn't really needed if they do a good job. Make sure they properly prep the frame and cover all the bolt holes.

Otherwise its a straight forward job. Just take your time and swap over. I found it easier to get the motor in first. Place the motor on a tire. Lay the frame over the motor and mount up, the flip frame over. Poof the motor is mounted without scratching the new powdercoat job and only takes 1 person :) .

Good luck
 

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any pictures of a gusseted frame?
 

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Best I have.. Also, doing it again.. Maybe more gussets in the rear, and around the motor mounts and foot pegs.. Although I never had an issue there, they are problem spots after the steering hoop and center spar..








I left the wiring on the old frame. so when I got the new one, after I got the engine in, I just removed it from the old frame and onto the new one. So just about all the wire routing was the same and I didn't have to try and remember. Also easier to run the wiring when there is nothing else in the way.



This is for 764, who has a heartattack about the way I work. I just tore everything off and piled it in the corner.. It really is easy to put together. Actually, you will put it back together better and have spare parts :)

 

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I think the thing you'll hate most is pulling and installing the engine. Might make it easier to pull the clutches off. Be sure you label the bolts or pull them out then put back in the hole so you don't lose any or put them in the wrong spots. Take pictures of where the wires are run to help. Might make it easier to pull it all off, put the engine in, then start adding parts back on.

Parts you might look at replacing, check the tie rods and ends, swing arm bearings, a-arm bearings and steering balljoints.
 

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Great thread because I plan on doing this during the winter except I will only have one frame.
 

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freezer bags work good for labeling bolts and such.
i just throw it all in a pile and go for it.
most of the guys on here polish all the bolts.
 

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freezer bags work good for labeling bolts and such.
i just throw it all in a pile and go for it.
most of the guys on here polish all the bolts.
I actually thought about just getting stainless steel bolts for everything. If you do the freezer bags. I put the bolts in and tape it to whatever it came off of and then number them so you know how it goes back together. Pictures each time also help....
 

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I replaced almost every bolt with stainless allen bolts. CAUTION!!! If you do this, get a big ol bottle of anti-seize. I looked at my old frame and saw where there were stress marks and gussetted those areas, as well as the steering hoop and the spar. I also got rid of almost all of the ducting and vacuum.

I took my motor out with four broken ribs, and I am a paraplegic. Point is, it isn't that hard. I used a little floor jack and raised the motor. Then slid the motor forward, twisted it counter clockwise, and then slid it straight across to my appropriately adjusted ATV Jack. When putting it back in, old Jeans around the frame tubes work great to protect it.

And as RPM Said, DEFINATELY powder coat. It's not "that" expensive and is totally worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Update on the Frame order. I got the proverbial kick in the nuts with BikeBandit telling me they will no longer ship oversized boxes. And that they are in the process of removing such items from their website. They cancelled my order and recommended I buy from the local dealer. The search resumes.....
 

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Sorry bout the deal on the frame. That sucks. Don't let your dealer know that bikebandit won't ship.. Just goto them and tell them the price you can get it for. And see if they will discount their price or match it. It sometimes works. I did that with my dealership who wanted some outrageous price for a belt, and then matched the online prices.

The engine is extremely easy to get out, especially if the foot pegs and swingarm are removed. Put the engine back in the frame like I said, It doesn't get any easier and the frame is much lighter than the engine.
 

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my dealer offered me a frame for $600. ok price but you can get a good straight used frame for alot less probally
 

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my dealer offered me a frame for $600. ok price but you can get a good straight used frame for alot less probally
I bought mine for 6. When the frame arrived it had been damaged in shipping. I threw a fit and they marked it down to about four hundred. I took it home and straightened the to little brackets by hand, and then did a little dance cause I finally got one over on the stealer.:eek::eek::eek:
 

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That is awful.
 
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