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Teryx Clutch

5653 Views 20 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  Jammer
I have a 08 Teryx, Full pro circuit exhaust, Dynatek cdi ignition, 25" terracross tires, I have it apart now waiting on the parts. Can anyone help me out with which clutch springs I should start with? I will be getting a machined primary OD cover also.
Where should I start with my jetting? I am in Colorado @ 6-8,000'
I ride with guys that have RZR's.......
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v force john clutch mod does od cover in the deal its the way to go
GO with the vforce mod 350.00 that includes od cap get etra 2 mph over other od plates
How do I get in touch with John?

Any ideas on jetting?
v force john-570-773-1721 three days back to you
My stage 3 clutch has top end gearing for 84 mph in the Teryx. you;ll never go that fast though.

a bolt on cap is just good for 68 mph at redline. with mine you could cruise at 68 mph (if you had the power) so essentially, my stage 3 has 16 mph more mph gearing than a clutch cap.

low range is good for 52 mph and low end power will pull the wheels off the ground if you can get traction (even easier with soft rear shocks).

Mine also increaces low-mid-topend, as well as fuel mileage by 20%. a bolt on cap just adds top end and has no effect on low-midrange. my machining also offers far better belt grip by sheave angle change. It's something that any bolt in clutch kit can't compare to.

www.vforcejohn.com you can e-mail me from there, call me, pm me on here. whatever.

I will also have my own springs and weight kits in by this coming Friday (hopefully, it's taken long enough).

John
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Go with john, great bang for the buck for sure!
Where is the best place for the tools for pulling the clutch? On average how long does it take to pull the clutch? Is that about right a 3 day turn around for vfjohn's clutch mod?
Utv crap best deal i could find. v force john on the clutch
How much is the stage 3 minus doing the od cap?
I have to machine the cap even if you have a billet one on there.

Once the clutch is machined to stage 3 specs, having either the stock or billet cap there is zero difference in performance after the machining. They both do the same thing when machined and actually the stock one will be lighter. they just look pretty.

John
I already machined the cap and took out the KEBC bearing.
I have the VFJ 3 clutch, new belt, dynatek CDI, dynatek coils, twin exhaust w/equal legnth pipes, dynojet kit, air box mod, all done and I am working on Jetting
I used the dynojet springs and needles #2 on the clip I started out with
a DJ 134 / 138 it was lean I went 142 / 146 and so on now I am at a Keihin 170 front and rear and it runs good, but it seems to only run about 45 mph am I to rich? I am going to drop down to a 150/150 Keihins and see if I can get some more top end. I dont have an A/F gauge ( I am at 6000' in Colorado ) any ideas?
wow, are you saying that it tops out at 45 even after the vfj mod??? something aint right. i can almost get mine to 60 without his mod YET
I have the VFJ 3 clutch, new belt, dynatek CDI, dynatek coils, twin exhaust w/equal legnth pipes, dynojet kit, air box mod, all done and I am working on Jetting
I used the dynojet springs and needles #2 on the clip I started out with
a DJ 134 / 138 it was lean I went 142 / 146 and so on now I am at a Keihin 170 front and rear and it runs good, but it seems to only run about 45 mph am I to rich? I am going to drop down to a 150/150 Keihins and see if I can get some more top end. I dont have an A/F gauge ( I am at 6000' in Colorado ) any ideas?


You should be able to run 45 mph in low gear.

you are jetted incorrectly

for a sealevel machine. I used 152-155 keihin jets and the DJ needle on the 2nd clip UP.

for 6000 feet. drop that at least 10 sizes on the mains and you'd be 140 ish with a keihin jet. Dynojet 140 is = to a Keihin 155-158

I find it hard to believe you were lean with a 134/138 dynojet. I'd assume you were TOO RICH. that is what it recomends for a sea level application you'd probably be 125-128 dynojet

you prob don't even need the dynojet needle and just need to change the main jets.

as you know, the stocker should be good for 55-57 mph for the mods you have listed.

John
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With the 134/138 with th DJ needle I would have to cover up more than half of the opening in the airbox to make it run better.
I will be working on it tonight and tomo night, I will let you know where I end up.
Thanks
I put in DJ 126/130 it would not wind up so i put on a stock lid with snorkle and it's much better It still lays down for a second before it gets to the limiter.
Could the Dynojet lighter springs be letting the slides open to quick? causing the slight bog?
First off I should ask what you have done to the airbox and if you can explain the entire setup.

Second, Does that exhaust have 02 bungs welded in it?? if not. for your sake I'd have 2 welded in each header and pick up an LM-1 to tune it with.

You'd be suprised how easy tuning will become when you know what you are rich/lean. the needle could be what's messing with you. have you changed out the pilot. I use a 40, but at your altitude.

it's also invaluable for trouble shooting.

I don't think the DJ springs would affect it as much as the needle would.

John
Wow you guys are way over my head im glad i got efi now lol!
First off I should ask what you have done to the airbox and if you can explain the entire setup.

Second, Does that exhaust have 02 bungs welded in it?? if not. for your sake I'd have 2 welded in each header and pick up an LM-1 to tune it with.

You'd be suprised how easy tuning will become when you know what you are rich/lean. the needle could be what's messing with you. have you changed out the pilot. I use a 40, but at your altitude.

it's also invaluable for trouble shooting.

I don't think the DJ springs would affect it as much as the needle would.
John
I opened the existing opening to 3" x 4" like you told me.
Stock air filter
There are no bungs in the exhaust.
I am running a 38 Pilot.
Dynojet needles
Dynojet springs
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