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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
REDESIGNED TO FIT ALL CAMS!! DECOMP OR NO DECOMP WEIGHTS! as of 8/8/2013

click here to jump to new pics.
http://www.kawieriders.com/forum/in...reather-crank-case-venting-7.html#post1313927

These are a new approach to an age old issue on the kawasaki V-Twins. How can you stop the oil from coming out from BBK or extended wheelies!!

Have you ever seen this....Oil from the crank case enters your air box from overfilling, bad ring seal, or increased displacment and looks like you have blown the motor... (pic taken from can am forum)



I have the cure, Simple, bolt in and totally effective.

These are made to bolt in to the cylinder heads of every model 650-700-750cc kawy v-twin made from 2002-2013 with any motor kit from 633cc to over 1100cc. From near 10 years testing these atv's, it has proven that the cylinder head and the sides of those heads where the least oil flows are the best place to vent crank case windage issues.

Until now, we had to drill and tap the head, which was confusing, difficult for some, and destructive for others. No more worries!!!

NO MORE DRILLING AND TAPPING THE HEADS. Noventing from the valve adjustment covers (creates massive oil issue due to oil flow at the cam and rocker) No venting the crank case from the timing cover hole This makes routing the hose difficult as it melts off the pipes and spray from this hole increases oil issues on certain larger heavier flywheels that hang out (kfx700, prairies, teryx)

They will be available for sale sometimes this week. The VFJ Billet head breathers will be 39.95 and have a 1/2 inch hose they can connect to. If you want 2 of them I'll do 69.00

I can optionally make a 5/8 hose connection as well, price increases 5.00 per unit. all are coming standard with 1/2 inch hose connections which should be plenty of venting. One fitting should be more than sufficient, NOS motors and high HP apps, may want 2 vent fttings for max windage protection.

You can run front head, rear head, or both. There is no oil spray from these due to it's design that eliminates the oil "waterfall affect" tha happens from conventional drille and tapped holes, and baffling creates flow issues and trapped oil.

With this bolt in piece, You can now install the catch can (I may have a full system with hoses, can and lines available shortly for some models) There are a host of available unit', I prefer the 14.00 YFZ450 catch can.

They will look just like this, Plus the hose fitting will be installed
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They will clear all camshafts NOT running decompression weights. I can slim them down a bit for others that have stock cams OR running decomp weights if needed. I designed these to work with my setups.





39.95 each, or 69.00 for 2 heads. 5.00 2 day shipping in USA. 25.00 shipping to Canada.

John
 

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Picture is not working.
 

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John, so you would suggest 2 of them for my 730 w/ nitrous? What sort of deal for 3? I may want to put one on the 700 also.

So are you saying there would be benefits of installing this in place of the drilled/tapped head setup? Both of my V's have the rear cylinder tapped for a vent. I am just wondering if there would be a benefit to change to yours. They sure look nice.
 

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Seems like they sit in pretty far. They don't interfere with the cam sprockets?
 

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That looks great. I can't believe you didn't think of that before :p :lol:.
 

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That's it? I did that with a stock plug and a fitting. I ran the fitting in right up against the sprocket to keep as much oil from coming out. It didn't work for me,but I'm willing to try yours when I switch out cams when I come up. I really hope yours works.

I had some made like that with fins on them just to look cool when I did Mac the cleaners bike and I built those little finned plates on the side of the heads, but they made them wrong and they leaked. The o-ring is better then what we did.
Are you putting johns caps on the 820?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Seems like they sit in pretty far. They don't interfere with the cam sprockets?

So long as you have the cam decomps removed (all my cams have them removed), they are a direct fit.

If you are running decomp weights, I would have to slim the back end down about .0625 inch and they will fit with any cam setup. Which I intend to do today. They will fit a is, but it's a close fit with the decomps in there.

what I want to do is use the cams centrifugal force to throw the oil away from the opening and have it in there far enough that any oil running down the inside of the cap will run down the groove AROUND the hole instead of directly funneling into the fitting causing oil to blow out the hose.

This cuts down oil expulsion immensely. As with any crank vent setup, there will still be some oil blown out (such is the nature and purpose for this piece), but such a small amount it's not even an issue. Less than drilling and tapping the head.

John
 

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Discussion Starter #12
John, so you would suggest 2 of them for my 730 w/ nitrous? What sort of deal for 3? I may want to put one on the 700 also.

So are you saying there would be benefits of installing this in place of the drilled/tapped head setup? Both of my V's have the rear cylinder tapped for a vent. I am just wondering if there would be a benefit to change to yours. They sure look nice.
I'd leave the rear vent In the head and if you need more venting, install this in the front head and run another line up.


really, you'd just need 2 of them if you have 2 bikes and both rear heads are done already.

Or you could block off the rear and install this in it's place. Not much comes out of these fittings.

John
 

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John, on the 820 what do you think should go on it, 1 or 2 of them? Its not running nitrous though. Only +1mm valves and ported heads.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
First you need to get a machine up and running before you worry about these little parts.

really you should only need one. but more venting and having as little positive crank case pressures are a Plus for HP. So in reality, the more the better.
 

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Do you plan to make these for a while? I am not currently having any real issues but if I change my mind (or build another motor) down the road I am hoping I can still buy them.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Seems like they sit in pretty far. They don't interfere with the cam sprockets?

So long as you have the cam decomps removed (all my cams have them removed), they are a direct fit.

If you are running decomp weights, I would have to slim the back end down about .0625 inch and they will fit with any cam setup. Which I intend to do today. They will fit a is, but it's a close fit with the decomps in there.

what I want to do is use the cams centrifugal force to throw the oil away from the opening and have it in there far enough that any oil running down the inside of the cap will run down the groove AROUND the hole instead of directly funneling into the fitting causing oil to blow out the hose.

This cuts down oil expulsion immensely. As with any crank vent setup, there will still be some oil blown out (such is the nature and purpose for this piece), but such a small amount it's not even an issue. Less than drilling and tapping the head.

John

I like what you are doing there,and doing it so it works with the decomp you are going to sell way more.

Mine was just a threaded pipe all the way to the decomp and was small so I hope this works way better.
:tup:


This is a 9/16 hole and with the fitting in it's 1/2 inch ID. So there will be plenty of venting. I can also make it have a 5/8 hole and 5/8 hose. this may be overkill for most. I have used 1/2 inch ID hose for years and never had a issue. but I only had a 3/8 center hole in the fitting. Now the center hole is 1/8 inch larger. also in a better spot in the head.

John
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Been done before, and that's great, if you like a blue cloud of oil smoke following you!!

I even went as far as hooking up the shop vac to the vent tubes and running it on the dyno. There was no HP to be gained on this motor with negative crank pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
The yfz box works great. I have used it for years, and they are so cheap, even if they split on the seam, just buy another one for 14.00


On the std bore with NOS, There wasn't even a catch can on that at all. just the 2 fittings running up to a K&N filter along with the stock breather hose. No issues at all on the dyno or the trail. nothing came out of the tubes to get high enough to the filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
You are doing it in the right spot,I think it will just take a little more tweekin,keep going.

I had 5 1/2 vents in these things and they still will blow oil out no matter how many,it's like you say,it's where you put them. That's why when I built the first YFZ mod I put the drain back with a small hole where it would draw the oil down and not push as much out with the cam chain guild in front of the hole. It worked good for the most part. I sold enough YFZ cans to get Yamaha to call my dealer asking what the heck was going on with all the cans they were buying!:lol:
That's the issue. Oil runs down that cam chain guide and "waterfalls" rght in front of the hole. so any air moving in or out will be contaminated with oil very quickly.

This is why I started drilling an tapping the SIDE of the head. and this was way better than the cam chain tensioner hole, but still, the oil ran don the side of the head and it hd to go to the fitting eventually.

This way, the oil runs down the rocker cover, and right around the hole. it sits so close to the cam, any oil that comes near there will be centrifugally blown away from the rotation of the cam and sprocket assy.

Less oil that touches the fitting, less oil that can blow out.

John
 
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