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Discussion Starter #41
AN fittings cost way more, have smaller diameter insides vs the threaded O.D. but you can always use them. they are taped for 3/8NPT threads. so you could use NPTF, and NPTS fittings and they'd screw right in.

A/N fittings are generally used in high pressure apps where ID size and low flow volume are not a concern as they run alot of pressure thru it.

there's no better cost effective fitting than the one I will supply with the billet breather. I already thought it all out.

Hell, some of the Earls/holley fittings that screw in these breathers an cost 25.00 EACH not counting the part I make.

John
 

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I have not had good luck with Permatex Ultra Grey. I use Permatex MotoSeal and it works very well... better than Ultra Grey.

Motoseal is Yamabond. it's like thinned out ultra gray

it's greasier than ultra gray and doesn't fill the larger gaps as well. (plus harder to find and 3.00 more a tube)

I like the thick stuff. I have never had an issue with the ultra gray or black and it's everywhere.

John
It may be Yamabond but it very different than Ultra Gray. Motoseal is solvent based and you put it on both mating pieces. Ultra Gray is rubbery like most other RTV silicone-type sealants. My rocker covers & intakes were continually seeping/leaking until I used Motoseal. It is very easy to get here and is only about $7/tube. When you disassemble, there is very little sealant to clean off the halves.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
I never had that issue. but either way, both tubs of goop will work. Just don't use the blacksilicone, orange silicone or that clear shit.

really I like ultra gray simply because it smells like great. Like fresh printed money
 

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AN fittings cost way more, have smaller diameter insides vs the threaded O.D. but you can always use them. they are taped for 3/8NPT threads. so you could use NPTF, and NPTS fittings and they'd screw right in.

A/N fittings are generally used in high pressure apps where ID size and low flow volume are not a concern as they run alot of pressure thru it.

there's no better cost effective fitting than the one I will supply with the billet breather. I already thought it all out.

Hell, some of the Earls/holley fittings that screw in these breathers an cost 25.00 EACH not counting the part I make.

John
But that blue anodize looks so sweet! I guess I should also mention we have a junk box of them laying around.
 

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AN fittings cost way more, have smaller diameter insides vs the threaded O.D. but you can always use them. they are taped for 3/8NPT threads. so you could use NPTF, and NPTS fittings and they'd screw right in.

A/N fittings are generally used in high pressure apps where ID size and low flow volume are not a concern as they run alot of pressure thru it.

there's no better cost effective fitting than the one I will supply with the billet breather. I already thought it all out.

Hell, some of the Earls/holley fittings that screw in these breathers an cost 25.00 EACH not counting the part I make.

John
2.29 each:eek:
H130500 - Rifeng H130500 - 1/2" PEX x 1/2" Male Threaded Brass Elbow
 

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Discussion Starter #46 (Edited)
That's the wrong size for what we are using. those 1/2 pex to-1/2 mnpt is too large.

Im not offering "rigged" up setups here. these are top quality pieces, not hack it in there and JB weld it stuff. these are bolt in parts designed for those that want the best.

The OD of these billet caps are 1.2985 The hole I'm using is 9/16 drilled and tapped to 3/8 NPT. So you have 2 option for fittings that will be effective


So you can use 3/8 NPT to 1/2 barbed 90

or you can use 3/8 NPT to 5/8 barbed 90

those are what I recommend to use in these fittings.



I will be supplying these same style and chromed end fitting (not my actual pic, but this I what screws into the billet piece I made).



John
 

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If you are running a Muzzy Super Pro on a V, it doesn't look like there is enough clearance to run one of these on the rear cylinder. There is only about 3/8" clearance between the back of the pipe and the side of the rocker cover.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Ahh, but that's the best part. now you can put it in the front head, run less breather line, and have a straighter shot to the fitting as well as keep both breather hoses on the right side of the motor away from the exhaust

They do fit the Brute 750 super pro, which has very little clearance in that area as well.
 

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So I take it there is no need for a drain-back since it shouldn't push any oil?
 

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Discussion Starter #52
These ARE the breather and drain back systems. That's the entire point of what this thing does.

Obviously if you pointed the fitting downward, this could never be achieved, but installed turned anything from 10:00-2:00 position in the head and you have venting and drainback capability all in 1 fitting

Having a "drain back" is nothing more than having another vent. Like drilling and tapping your rear head. That blows oil out into the tube. and when you sit, it drains back.

Same thing will happen here. If oil gets blown out, when it sits, it drains back down the hose.



I did get the chrome fittings in, and they are WAY too small and close to the head, you'd never get a hose on it as the elbow is just too close to the head. I'm going to have to go with what I originally found and it was a hydraulic fitting that worked great, but didn't look the greatest, but it sure did flow, and that's the whole point of what were doing here. looking for additional positive crank case venting.

John
 

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John do you go from the crank case fitting straight up to your fitting with just one hose?
Sounds pretty simple.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
one original hose that comes from the motor, run to a catch can. The other hose coming from the head, run to a catch can. Vent the catch can to atmosphere. Cap off the airbox where the stock tube went
 

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Ok makes perfect sense now. Thanks
 

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good idea.. i machined a cap from billet before because i misplaced one and it was 5 minutes on the lathe or 3 days from the dealer.. but i never thought to run the drill and tap through it..
 

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Discussion Starter #58
good idea.. i machined a cap from billet before because i misplaced one and it was 5 minutes on the lathe or 3 days from the dealer.. but i never thought to run the drill and tap through it..

Start to finish with 5 tool changes (drill, tap, face, groove, part off), about 3 mins 30 seconds. but then the CNC machine was 75 grand to make it.

You have to stand by it to hold it when the part gets cut off or it dents it on the parts catcher.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
John. I need to get 2 of these with the fittings for my build ASAP. Call me 806 239 4030.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

I sent just 2 sets to Texas today, were these for you?

if not I have a few sets left
 
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