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good idea.. i machined a cap from billet before because i misplaced one and it was 5 minutes on the lathe or 3 days from the dealer.. but i never thought to run the drill and tap through it..

Start to finish with 5 tool changes (drill, tap, face, groove, part off), about 3 mins 30 seconds. but then the CNC machine was 75 grand to make it.

You have to stand by it to hold it when the part gets cut off or it dents it on the parts catcher.
when i made mine all i did instead of grooving the plug and using an o ring was leave a ridge in the right position when i was machining the OD.. like you said you have to use the ultra grey anyway.. just a quick change and you can cut out the o ring..
 

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Discussion Starter #63
I can easily do that as well, but not every cam hole I have measured is exactly the same exact ID so the o-ring provides a bit of leniency so the alum would never space the journal out incase the ID hole was a hair smaller and there's some room for heat expansion.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Where are you terminating the other hose end?

the hose end of the crank vent? you will run all hoses front, rear, and original to a catch can. I use a 3/4 to 1/2 inch reducer off the factory crank vent and then these fittings are all 1/2 inch line
 

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one original hose that comes from the motor, run to a catch can. The other hose coming from the head, run to a catch can. Vent the catch can to atmosphere. Cap off the airbox where the stock tube went
John , I know a lot of guys that run those little mini K&N looking filters at the end of the crankcase line under their pod, but in your case, instead of venting the can to the atmosphere, is it possible to still just run it back to the original spot in the air box?
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Yes, just put the can lower than the airbox. I have my teryx like this as sometimes you can get an oil smell from the air coming out. as long as there is a catch can in between the airbox and motor, you are set.
 

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Awesome!
 

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You might have posted it already but what is the hose fitting size?
 

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Discussion Starter #73
The hose fitting is 1/2 inch ID hose. it's a Hydraulic fitting which is the best flow I could find. that damn fitting costs me 10.00 a piece.

I got some chrome ones in that looked better, but the inside was smaller and restricted flow.

You can also use the Earls/holley fittings that look better, but I don't want to pay 35.00 for a hose fitting, it'd double these in price. i'm looking for effectiveness and this does it.
 

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one original hose that comes from the motor, run to a catch can. The other hose coming from the head, run to a catch can. Vent the catch can to atmosphere. Cap off the airbox where the stock tube went
John , I know a lot of guys that run those little mini K&N looking filters at the end of the crankcase line under their pod, but in your case, instead of venting the can to the atmosphere, is it possible to still just run it back to the original spot in the air box?
Yes, just put the can lower than the airbox. I have my teryx like this as sometimes you can get an oil smell from the air coming out. as long as there is a catch can in between the airbox and motor, you are set.
Why?
I just put a YZF catch can on a BF750, and mounted it to the side of the air filter box. Original crankcase vent hose runs to the middle catch can fitting, bottom ( oil return) catch can fitting runs to the new VFJ fitting in the head, and the top catch can fitting is looped back down to the original fitting at the bottom if the airbox. There shouldn't be any oil coming out of the top catch can fitting anyway, should there?
 

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Discussion Starter #76
Oil and condensed oil/water can puddle up in the hose where the dip is. There is an oil mist that comes out.

What you want is NO WHERE the oil can lay and block the tube creating pressure or you will have an oil geyser affect. (this happens to the guys that loop the hoses) I've been soaked on the dyno more than once!!!

Doubtful you'll have any issue, but shorter and straighter the hoses are, the more successful this will be.
 

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Oil and condensed oil/water can puddle up in the hose where the dip is. There is an oil mist that comes out.

What you want is NO WHERE the oil can lay and block the tube creating pressure or you will have an oil geyser affect. (this happens to the guys that loop the hoses) I've been soaked on the dyno more than once!!!

Doubtful you'll have any issue, but shorter and straighter the hoses are, the more successful this will be.
I can see it not working for sure if there was a loop leading to a separate filter, but I'm hoping that the line heading to a vacuum source (airbox crankcase vent factory fitting) with a dip will transfer the condensation to the inside of the airbox without puddling. Time will tell.
As a side note, I have a clear piece of thin walled hose as the line to the airbox; I was amazed to see how much condensation is generated by an engine that's been sitting for awhile. When running WOT w/o the plastic on, you can see the streaks of condensation running down the hose toward the airbox. Never would have thought it.
 

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I use a Plastic T fitting in the bottom of the loop and putt a cap on the T and pull it and drain,like John said just condensation build up
 
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