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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
FINALLY. I should have them done with in the next few weeks. this was over 8 months in planning and the final execution.

I have fully adjustable weights made up for the Teryx and the Brute forces. as well as the adapter kits for the 08-09's to run the weights.

Brute weights are fully adjustable 52 grams to 72 grams.

Teryx weights are adjustable 66 grams to 79 grams

I also have made up are some custom springs that no one else offers in these shiftout ranges that are needed with BBK's and oversize tires to get the RPM's needed without lightening the weights and causing belt heat and slippage.

They are zero stall (or as close to as I could get them with maybe a 10-12 stall rating) springs rated 180 shiftout, 225 shiftout and 255 shiftout, as well as a bad ass roller clutch spring for drag atv's with high stall (4000 rpm) and a 260 shiftout. and a little lesser (if you can call it that) high stall 240 shiftout. I also have a vforce aggressive spring similar to the polaris Yellow medium/high 2800-3200 stall 60/185 shiftout.

I just got the call that they are ready and I should have them in stock with in the next few weeks.

I am working on prices, but I aim to have them 2/3's the cost of other clutch kits. (hopefully in the 200-250 range) these will be primary springs, adjustable weights, secondary springs (when needed). the whole 9 yards.

I'll know more about the pricing as I tally up all the costs. but they were less than anticipated.

I want to keep the price as low as possible.



Also watch out for the new www.vforcejohn.com website. I should have that fully automated and up and running soon with credit card payment and internet ordering direct from the site.

I will list all the products that I sell on that website from clutching to motor kits, exhausts, intakes, carb kits, filters. basically everything that we use and I have found to work best for the dollar spent.

John
 

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so.. it is good that I have been waiting to get with you on a clutch set up for my chain drive...?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've yet to work on the V weights. I want to make a set of 45-60 grammers with adjustability and a flatter profile. this way, there all you'll ever need.

nothing is worse than buying an adjustable clutch kit that you have to run completely bare as they are too heavy and can't adjust due to loosing RPM's.

don't worry Zmann. I have a 900 stroker chaindrive to work on that with. but it's all going to come down to gearing and tire size. there are so many variables in that setup.

for now, most can get away with the stock weights for the 90% of them that have bolt on's and normal bbk mods. it's the big valve heads and large carb guys that need different weights.

header length and size plays a huge role in clutch shiftout as well. shorter and larger like higher RPM's. longer and smaller like lower rpm's.

I did a 13:1 800 with stage 3's and ported heads, big intakes with 48 webers. I could get it to rev at 8500 rpm (you'd assume that's a good starting rpm) but it liked heavier weight instead of lighter and made it's best power at 7750 rpm. torquey as hell though. but it ran the standard muzzy, small diameter pipes and long tubes which brought down the peak HP range of the motor.

on NOS, it is going to be a hand full.

John
 

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I'm very interested in 225,255 and the high stall 260 springs.
Let me know when you have them in stock.
 

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I'm interested in the near 0 engagement with the 180 shiftout.

Any numbers on what the rate of compression is after the initial engagement?
 

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Are the new springs mainly for over sized tire setups or can they be used for drags and/or trail riding.
 

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Good deal John.
Should be a good drag season.
Your new products should heat up the competition;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Are the new springs mainly for over sized tire setups or can they be used for drags and/or trail riding.

They can be used for either drags or big tire. The primary spring depicts shiftout RPM along with flyweight mass and profile. So whatever tire or setup you are using that needs to rev more than stock, this will do it.

the adjustable clutch weights combined with the range of springs will allow you to set the clutch to shift out at any rpm. you could setup a stock machine to shift out at 9000 rpm or modded machines to shiftout at over 10,000 (52's and the 260 spring)

set the tire size up with the secondary spring.

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'm interested in the near 0 engagement with the 180 shiftout.

Any numbers on what the rate of compression is after the initial engagement?
I am actually having 2 springs made up with a little different compression #. they will be both 180 rated springs, but one will have a higher stall and a lower shiftout # and be a little longer (for the Vforce). the zero stall is a thicker coil and shorter zero stall spring with higher compression rate (4x4's).

The rate of compression mid-rate varies pending on the height you compress it down to. trust me, they are more stout than the EPI maroon midrange and that should cure the midrange drop in rpm that can occur with that spring.

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
john what would the stall be on a polaris brown spring cheers
the brown is rated at a 69 stall (about 3500ish) and if I remember correctly a 205 shiftout.

the yellow is the next under right with the orange.

John
 

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I've yet to work on the V weights. I want to make a set of 45-60 grammers with adjustability and a flatter profile. this way, there all you'll ever need.

nothing is worse than buying an adjustable clutch kit that you have to run completely bare as they are too heavy and can't adjust due to loosing RPM's.

don't worry Zmann. I have a 900 stroker chaindrive to work on that with. but it's all going to come down to gearing and tire size. there are so many variables in that setup.

for now, most can get away with the stock weights for the 90% of them that have bolt on's and normal bbk mods. it's the big valve heads and large carb guys that need different weights.

header length and size plays a huge role in clutch shiftout as well. shorter and larger like higher RPM's. longer and smaller like lower rpm's.

I did a 13:1 800 with stage 3's and ported heads, big intakes with 48 webers. I could get it to rev at 8500 rpm (you'd assume that's a good starting rpm) but it liked heavier weight instead of lighter and made it's best power at 7750 rpm. torquey as hell though. but it ran the standard muzzy, small diameter pipes and long tubes which brought down the peak HP range of the motor.

on NOS, it is going to be a hand full.

John

sounds good.. it will be a few weeks yet and I will be giving you a call....
 

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John.... need to ask you some ???? about this dang chain drive.... will send ya a pm.
 
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