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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I've developed some sort of noise the last couple rides. It sounded like a pop through the carbs at first, but I haven't changed anything there in a long long time. I took the carbs off and looked for air leaks and things, but didn't find anything wrong.
Then I noticed that it only pops once, and only after the engine has been shut off for few minutes, and it only does it just when I'm giving it throttle to move, and it only does it maybe 50% of the time. That's what makes it so hard to diagnose.
Anyway, I can rev the engine in neutral all I want and it won't pop. It has to be in gear. I took the clutches apart anyway just to see if the springs or pins or weights were getting bound up, and nothing looked bad.

Then yesterday, I noticed when it did pop, there was a definite loss of power until it popped, then it was back to full power, almost like it was fighting the brakes or something.
Now I'm thinking maybe the rear brakes are doing it, or maybe something in the driveline. The rear u-joint perhaps? But then I would think if the u-joint was going bad, it would be making a racket all the time and at all speeds.
Do the rear brakes stick when the friction plates wear out?
Any thoughts?

Again, it only does it from a stop to about 5 mph, only after engine has been shut off for a minute or two, and only about 50% of the time. It won't do it in neutral, it won't do it from a stop if the engine was kept running, and it fights the engine's power.
 

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Interesting. May be something wearing out back there. Trips around the world can do that...lol. But seriously, talking about these wet brakes. They are affixed to the pinion. In the BFs as in yours, the outer pinion bearing is retained by a screw-in piece that has to be torqued and loc-tited. Many on Brutes have come loose and as the pinion is pushed or pulled by the interaction with the ring gear, it applies pressure on the brake disks one way and separates the disks the other. Some say they hear it pop or clunk going back and forth when this happens. Another guy had the same thing happening except when he pulled his apart, it was the bearing that had failed and gave it that forward and back play. And all of them would only do it in a gear...which would make sense. Might also be having a carrier bearing failing..or at least enough to give you some side play...or even a problem with the bevel gear in the transmission. I guess you have some investigating to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Interesting. May be something wearing out back there. Trips around the world can do that...lol. But seriously, talking about these wet brakes. They are affixed to the pinion. In the BFs as in yours, the outer pinion bearing is retained by a screw-in piece that has to be torqued and loc-tited. Many on Brutes have come loose and as the pinion is pushed or pulled by the interaction with the ring gear, it applies pressure on the brake disks one way and separates the disks the other. Some say they hear it pop or clunk going back and forth when this happens. Another guy had the same thing happening except when he pulled his apart, it was the bearing that had failed and gave it that forward and back play. And all of them would only do it in a gear...which would make sense. Might also be having a carrier bearing failing..or at least enough to give you some side play...or even a problem with the bevel gear in the transmission. I guess you have some investigating to do.
It's one thing fixing something you know is wrong. It really stinks not knowing what you need to fix. And it's really bad when you can't get it to do it on demand so you can figure out where it's coming from.
 

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Those weird noises are hard to troubleshoot as you have to be riding it to make it make the noise. Makes it difficult to locate. If there is a definite loss in momentum, I would think driveline, as you have already suggested. The problem is trying to pinpoint it so you don't have to tear apart more stuff than you need to. Some investigative surgery is required! Let us know what you find.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So I took the clutches back off today, and I jacked up the frame so I could spin the tires and put it in and out of neutral and drive. I turned the wheels both ways from the tires to the secondary clutch shaft in both neutral and high, and I put the brakes on and off in sequence to replicate how it's ridden. Couldn't get it to make one noise at all. Feels tight and moves smoothly and quietly all the way through. So then I checked the front brakes to see if they were sticking. Nope. 25,000 miles and the pads are still good.
So then I tore the clutches apart and tightened the belt a tad, polished the weight pins, and put 2 new ramps in. Lubed the helix pins, and reversed the springs.
Put it all back together and spent 2 hours running it around the block and stopping to see if I could get it to pop again. Zip. Nothing. Not one pop. So it either fixed itself, it I did something I don't know, or it's just screwing with me.🥴🤷‍♂️

I guess I'll go take it on a real ride and see what happens.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Took it for a 40 mile ride in the mountains today, and never had one pop noise. I guess it's gone.
Wish I knew what it was.

On a side note though, something else happened that I've never had happen before. My temp light came on three separate times, and my fan was working. The only time I've ever had the temp light come on in the past was when the fan wasn't working due to the bad breaker box.
I was on a tight trail in low range, and it was probably in the 90's F. But shouldn't the cooling system keep them from getting too hot at that temp? It was probably the hottest temp and slowest ride I've ever done, but the fan runs and the radiator is clean. Shouldn't it handle 90's?
 

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Took it for a 40 mile ride in the mountains today, and never had one pop noise. I guess it's gone.
Wish I knew what it was.

On a side note though, something else happened that I've never had happen before. My temp light came on three separate times, and my fan was working. The only time I've ever had the temp light come on in the past was when the fan wasn't working due to the bad breaker box.
I was on a tight trail in low range, and it was probably in the 90's F. But shouldn't the cooling system keep them from getting too hot at that temp? It was probably the hottest temp and slowest ride I've ever done, but the fan runs and the radiator is clean. Shouldn't it handle 90's?
The radiators and fans on Brutes were minimum- not even 10% reserve as they built them to move forward, not move slow or sit running in high heat. I'm sure the Prairies were the same. They only upped them in 2012 just a little. This is why many went with the old larger HL radiators and larger fans...especially with BBKs. Might can still get something that can be adapted-in. A larger CFM fan is certainly out there somewhere. I have some friends in a radiator shop that was going to custom make me a radiator from some 4-core stock. Said it would cool a V-6. Never got around to it...or really needed it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The radiators and fans on Brutes were minimum- not even 10% reserve as they built them to move forward, not move slow or sit running in high heat. I'm sure the Prairies were the same. They only upped them in 2012 just a little. This is why many went with the old larger HL radiators and larger fans...especially with BBKs. Might can still get something that can be adapted-in. A larger CFM fan is certainly out there somewhere. I have some friends in a radiator shop that was going to custom make me a radiator from some 4-core stock. Said it would cool a V-6. Never got around to it...or really needed it.
Well at least I was watching it when it happened. The light only got to blink 4 or 5 times before I shut it off and let it cool a minute. And it never came on while I was moving, only when I stopped to take a picture or move a rock out of the way. What was weird is I can see when my fan comes on while riding because my voltmeter drops down to 13.5 volts. The last time the temp light came on, the fan didn't come on until like one second before the light. So according to the manual, the fan comes on at a certain temp, then the light comes on a certain amount after that. So just stopping long enough to put it into reverse and back it into the trailer, the temp went from not needing the fan at all, to temp light on. That's like about 20 degree jump in like 15 seconds. That seems weird to me, almost like maybe my temp light sensor is going bad maybe?
 

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Well at least I was watching it when it happened. The light only got to blink 4 or 5 times before I shut it off and let it cool a minute. And it never came on while I was moving, only when I stopped to take a picture or move a rock out of the way. What was weird is I can see when my fan comes on while riding because my voltmeter drops down to 13.5 volts. The last time the temp light came on, the fan didn't come on until like one second before the light. So according to the manual, the fan comes on at a certain temp, then the light comes on a certain amount after that. So just stopping long enough to put it into reverse and back it into the trailer, the temp went from not needing the fan at all, to temp light on. That's like about 20 degree jump in like 15 seconds. That seems weird to me, almost like maybe my temp light sensor is going bad maybe?
It might also be that the thermostat is getting tired and not opening up all the way when needed. If it's original...it's way past service life expectancy by now. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It might also be that the thermostat is getting tired and not opening up all the way when needed. If it's original...it's way past service life expectancy by now. :)
Oh yeah, it's original. I have never had to replace anything on the cooling system except for the top hose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
OD= Over Due. Usually only good for about 10K miles.
😄 Everything on my Kawie is a ticking time bomb that should've gone off like 10,000 miles ago. But she just keeps going!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
So I went and did a night ride last night in the mountains. Temps were 60-70, and the temp warning light still came on about 30 seconds after I would stop. The last time it came on while I was backing into the trailer, the fan came on about two seconds after the light. So something ain't jiving.
I'm thinking the temp light sensor is malfunctioning because it doesn't act hot. No boiling over, no gurgling in the tank.
 
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