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Discussion Starter #1
I am looking for some advice i have a 2005 brute 750 twin and i was considering getting a dynatek CDI.:confused: Is there anything i should consider or have done before i spend the money on this. I was told that these are pretty much plug and play but im not sure. Any advice would be great. Thanks
 

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Plug and play is pretty much it.
A few people reported having to shim/raise the carb needles slightly due to a minor lean condition, but that's not a big deal.
The 2005 750's came from the factory with a slightly thicker (leaner) needle in the front carb; there's a service bulletin out to change to a richer needle if the owner complained about lean popping. If you put in the CDI and the engine seems lean, you will probably find it has the lean needle in the front carb.
 

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You will hear mostly good things about the aftermarket CDI, but there are two big drawbacks that have kept me from buying one. They increase kickback on the starter motor gears, and they wear out clutch shoes faster.

My particular Prairie is the envy of all my buddies because it starts so easy all the time. It's a total "Monday made" fluke probably, but it starts easier than brand new FI machines, and I don't want to screw that up.

As for the shoes, the extra wear on them can be avoided by not letting the engine idle much. But for me, that is just not possible. I like to let my engine warm up a bit before I ride, and I am always throwing it into neutral and letting it idle while I check maps, take photos, or glass for critters. I also like to let it idle to keep the water pump moving when I hear the fan running when I come to a stop.

It would be nice to have the extra power the CDI provides, but the P700 and BF750 aren't exactly pussy cats in the power department as they are, so I just enjoy what I've got.
 

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but there are two big drawbacks that have kept me from buying; they wear out clutch shoes faster.
Wut??
Explain please.
BTW; idling is the easiest time the clutch has; there's no load (and VERY little wear generated) and it allows the rotating assembly to cool off.
Idling doesn't wear the clutch, clutches are noisier when idling because of the twin cylinder pulses and no load. All the noise lets you know is that the clearances have become worn while operating under a load.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well I think i'm most likely going to get one because i'm wanting to build this thing up to be a beast of a mud machine. I was just wanting to do a little homework first. Thanks for the advice everyone. Very much appreciated. Also anyone know what kind of clutching i should do. I am going to be putting on some 27" mega mayhems at the end of the month. I was thinking of the EPI mudder kit, But again just not sure, anyone out there have this set up or a similar one. Likes? Dislikes? Thanks again
 

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I would strongly suggest VForceJohn (on this site), or Dalton Industries over your choice above.
 

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Idk to much about programmers but from what I have experienced and what I have heard msd and the power commander 5 are the best.
 

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Idk to much about programmers but from what I have experienced and what I have heard msd and the power commander 5 are the best.
Those controllers are for FI machines only.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thats what i was thinking nova Dynatek is the only one i know of for carbs. Im sure there are other out there though
 

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Every aftermarket cdi I have ever bought has failed.dont waste your money.if your brute is stock,why bother?
 

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I have one in my stock engine 05 750 and what a night and day difference once you install the Dynatec . Buy it , install it , and you'll see what we are talking about . I have also done the removal of the stock spark plug boot resistors , but still have the spark plug resistance in the NGK plugs , and have not seen any damage . I do plan on ordering new plug boot resistors and reinstalling them due to people reporting that the removal of these boot resistors is said to be what can damage the aftermarket cdi's - I don't know of any proof of this , but just read about it on the KFX700 threads . My boot resistors read at 1.5k ohms and I believe they are supposed to be at 5k ohms .
 

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the brute react totally different than a v Force when adding a dyna cdi and they are the best bang for the buck and I have seen many dynas go bad but the VDIs I have seen go bad alot
 

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the brute react totally different than a v Force when adding a dyna cdi and they are the best bang for the buck and I have seen many dynas go bad but the VDIs I have seen go bad alot
You've seen many Dynas go bad, or you've not seen many Dynas go bad?
 

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6500 miles and about 500 hrs on my Dyna. 7400miles/620hrs total on machine. No problems whatsoever.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
yeah I'm pretty much sold on the Dynatek I haven't been able to find very many negative comments about them. So I will be adding one real soon thanks for all the feed back guys and I will give you an update once I get it. I am hoping for a wheelie monster :)
 

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My Dynatek CDI has been in mine sense 2006 and has never given me any trouble. For the first year I switched back to the stock unit a few times just to feel the difference but the extra kick was so noticeable with the Dyna, the stock unit has been shelved sense 2007. Yes, mine needed 40-thousands shims on the needles and yes it needed #40 pilots...but that's it. And Kickstart, mine still starts as fast or faster then an FI machine...of course the Shorai battery gets some of the credit...lol
 

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I installed a dynatek and clutch springs about a month ago. I spent the rest of the day doing wheelies and tearing up the yard! I doubt you'll be disappointed.
 

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I installed a dynatek and clutch springs about a month ago. I spent the rest of the day doing wheelies and tearing up the yard! I doubt you'll be disappointed.
^^^^:D

You might wanna get some new grips too! Plug it in and hold on.
 

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copperhead VDI

I put a copperhead VDI in my 2004 and while only 700 miles on it, it purrs and rips like a beast..very noticeable difference...plug n play..
programmable fuel charts etc..
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I got my Dynatec installed last week and holy crap what a big difference. It takes everything to hold the front end down when you smash the gas at a stand still. I have to agree that this is probably the best bang for your buck. So anyone that hasnt got one yet needs one!!! Its worth every penny.
 
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