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what i should know before installing an aftermarket CDI

6K views 28 replies 13 participants last post by  Hursteric 
#1 ·
I am looking for some advice i have a 2005 brute 750 twin and i was considering getting a dynatek CDI.:confused: Is there anything i should consider or have done before i spend the money on this. I was told that these are pretty much plug and play but im not sure. Any advice would be great. Thanks
 
#2 ·
Plug and play is pretty much it.
A few people reported having to shim/raise the carb needles slightly due to a minor lean condition, but that's not a big deal.
The 2005 750's came from the factory with a slightly thicker (leaner) needle in the front carb; there's a service bulletin out to change to a richer needle if the owner complained about lean popping. If you put in the CDI and the engine seems lean, you will probably find it has the lean needle in the front carb.
 
#3 ·
You will hear mostly good things about the aftermarket CDI, but there are two big drawbacks that have kept me from buying one. They increase kickback on the starter motor gears, and they wear out clutch shoes faster.

My particular Prairie is the envy of all my buddies because it starts so easy all the time. It's a total "Monday made" fluke probably, but it starts easier than brand new FI machines, and I don't want to screw that up.

As for the shoes, the extra wear on them can be avoided by not letting the engine idle much. But for me, that is just not possible. I like to let my engine warm up a bit before I ride, and I am always throwing it into neutral and letting it idle while I check maps, take photos, or glass for critters. I also like to let it idle to keep the water pump moving when I hear the fan running when I come to a stop.

It would be nice to have the extra power the CDI provides, but the P700 and BF750 aren't exactly pussy cats in the power department as they are, so I just enjoy what I've got.
 
#4 · (Edited)
but there are two big drawbacks that have kept me from buying; they wear out clutch shoes faster.
Wut??
Explain please.
BTW; idling is the easiest time the clutch has; there's no load (and VERY little wear generated) and it allows the rotating assembly to cool off.
Idling doesn't wear the clutch, clutches are noisier when idling because of the twin cylinder pulses and no load. All the noise lets you know is that the clearances have become worn while operating under a load.
 
#5 ·
Well I think i'm most likely going to get one because i'm wanting to build this thing up to be a beast of a mud machine. I was just wanting to do a little homework first. Thanks for the advice everyone. Very much appreciated. Also anyone know what kind of clutching i should do. I am going to be putting on some 27" mega mayhems at the end of the month. I was thinking of the EPI mudder kit, But again just not sure, anyone out there have this set up or a similar one. Likes? Dislikes? Thanks again
 
#6 ·
I would strongly suggest VForceJohn (on this site), or Dalton Industries over your choice above.
 
#7 ·
Idk to much about programmers but from what I have experienced and what I have heard msd and the power commander 5 are the best.
 
#8 ·
Those controllers are for FI machines only.
 
#9 ·
Thats what i was thinking nova Dynatek is the only one i know of for carbs. Im sure there are other out there though
 
#10 ·
Every aftermarket cdi I have ever bought has failed.dont waste your money.if your brute is stock,why bother?
 
#11 ·
I have one in my stock engine 05 750 and what a night and day difference once you install the Dynatec . Buy it , install it , and you'll see what we are talking about . I have also done the removal of the stock spark plug boot resistors , but still have the spark plug resistance in the NGK plugs , and have not seen any damage . I do plan on ordering new plug boot resistors and reinstalling them due to people reporting that the removal of these boot resistors is said to be what can damage the aftermarket cdi's - I don't know of any proof of this , but just read about it on the KFX700 threads . My boot resistors read at 1.5k ohms and I believe they are supposed to be at 5k ohms .
 
#12 ·
the brute react totally different than a v Force when adding a dyna cdi and they are the best bang for the buck and I have seen many dynas go bad but the VDIs I have seen go bad alot
 
#13 ·
the brute react totally different than a v Force when adding a dyna cdi and they are the best bang for the buck and I have seen many dynas go bad but the VDIs I have seen go bad alot
You've seen many Dynas go bad, or you've not seen many Dynas go bad?
 
#15 ·
yeah I'm pretty much sold on the Dynatek I haven't been able to find very many negative comments about them. So I will be adding one real soon thanks for all the feed back guys and I will give you an update once I get it. I am hoping for a wheelie monster :)
 
#16 ·
My Dynatek CDI has been in mine sense 2006 and has never given me any trouble. For the first year I switched back to the stock unit a few times just to feel the difference but the extra kick was so noticeable with the Dyna, the stock unit has been shelved sense 2007. Yes, mine needed 40-thousands shims on the needles and yes it needed #40 pilots...but that's it. And Kickstart, mine still starts as fast or faster then an FI machine...of course the Shorai battery gets some of the credit...lol
 
#19 ·
copperhead VDI

I put a copperhead VDI in my 2004 and while only 700 miles on it, it purrs and rips like a beast..very noticeable difference...plug n play..
programmable fuel charts etc..
 
#20 ·
I got my Dynatec installed last week and holy crap what a big difference. It takes everything to hold the front end down when you smash the gas at a stand still. I have to agree that this is probably the best bang for your buck. So anyone that hasnt got one yet needs one!!! Its worth every penny.
 
#21 ·
2 things to be aware of.

1. Starter kickback, will break teeth off the gear and into the motor they go, no easy way to get them out with our pulling the motor apart or using a magnetic drain plug and getting them out over time.
Solution, upgrade to the 2012 starter gear, almost twice as thick and stronger.

2. Go for a ride at dusk/night and get on it hard, stop quick and see if the front of your muffler is glowing red, if it is you need to shim the needles as you are lean.
 
#22 ·
Someone please spread some light on the Dynatec cdi starter kick back issue . I swear I remember reading that this issue was fixed by Dynatec years ago ?
 
#23 ·
Ok so I have noticed something different with my brute now that I have installed the dyna. In the lower rpm rang from like 5mph to 20 mph or so I hear a slight popping in the intake is this normal. I never noticed it before. I'm going to install my old cdi and see if it does it still? I was told it could have something to do with the timing or maybe my valves need to be adjusted? Any input would be great thanks and also how hard would it be to upgrade to the 2012 starter gear?
 
#25 ·
where can i order the shims i tried looking for them on ebay but didnt find anything other then full jet kits that came with them. I know im one size larger on the pilot jet i believe its a #40. When i bought it i put it in the shop and had to carbs over hauled and the mechanic recommended me going up a size on the pilot. But im not sure if they shimmed the needles or not.
 
#26 ·
Pjmptorsports
 
#27 ·
I've had a dynatec on mine since '06. I only really felt the difference off a start and no reverse limiter.
Its never been a wheely machine even with the 665 kit. It will pull the wheels off a start on the road but in the dirt it just spins. Back end doesn't squad down, it actually lifts up.
 
#28 ·
see mine will snatch the wheels up in the dirt i would be scared to try it on the road, just because of the added grip i would have.
 
#29 ·
Dman from what i could find online dynatek has fixed the kick back problem and some were saying if its an issue you can send back your box and they will replace it. Also people where saying if you are worried about the kick back problem to make sure you don't start the bike in gear or let it idle for long periods of time. Not really sure about the idle part that seems kinda weird to me, but the starting in gear makes sense. I always put mine in neutral when i shut it down.
 
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