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Discussion Starter #1
Weighing my options for a Boondocker nitrous kit. Just curious what is the best set-up for 300' sand drags.

OPTIONS:

A) 1 nitrous bottle or 2 nitrous bottles (does 2 bottles only mean it lasts longer, or do you also get a performance benefit too?),

B ) 1 manifold or 2 manifolds (I'm guessing 2 manifolds might be better so you can have 1 manifold directly above each venturi stack...is that right???),

C) Regulator or no regulator? (I heard that no regulator makes the nitrous hit harder off the line...is that true?),

D) What is a purge kit and is it necessary?

E) Is a heater wrap for the bottle really needed if I live in Texas (its warm most of the year)?


Any other tips/suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I'm a newbie to nitrous, so forgive me if I asked something stupid in this post.

Happy trails...:)
 

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A) 1 nitrous bottle or 2 nitrous bottles (does 2 bottles only mean it lasts longer, or do you also get a performance benefit too?),
Two bottles just means you have more nitrous. No performance gains. It does look nasty though.

B ) 1 manifold or 2 manifolds (I'm guessing 2 manifolds might be better so you can have 1 manifold directly above each venturi stack...is that right???),
You are correct or you can get a dual manifold. It has two nozzles in one.

C) Regulator or no regulator? (I heard that no regulator makes the nitrous hit harder off the line...is that true?)
I installed a regulator with the big white pill. It allows you to adjust your NOS shot but mine did not work from new... so it came off. A nitrous controller is what gives you a softer hit off the line and gradually gets bigger. You do not need this for any shot under 50.

D) What is a purge kit and is it necessary?
A purge kit is another selenoid installed just before your nitrous selenoid. You purge the line to get nitrous in the line and the air out. That way when you hit the nitrous button, the nitrous is right there. It is not necessary as our bottle to selenoid lines aren't that long... as opposed to a car with the nitrous bottle mounted in the trunk. They do look cool and intimidating when you purge at the line.

E) Is a heater wrap for the bottle really needed if I live in Texas (its warm most of the year)?
A bottle warmer would benefit anyone to a certain degree. It helps keep the bottle pressure consistant as the bottle empties. Normally as the bottle pressure decreases, so does your shot by a small amount. You do not need one. This is where a second bottle run inline with the first one would keep it more consistant for longer.
 

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do the boondockers or boss noss come with everything needed?
 

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Boss noss does and no bottle heater ever needed. Anyone wanting Boss Noss kits contact truegrit he's the man.
 

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That's trugrip.
 

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Oh yeah its been a long day.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the feedback Camo.
 

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Do you have a nitrous kit Mikey or looking? Or maybe just thinking right now?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for asking Camo.

My plans might change, but right now I'm thinking about buying a Boondockers kit sometime after I get my motor back together and break in the fresh rings (hopefully by the end of December).

Had my 800cc bbk for 2.5 years now and I'm starting to get a little bored with it even tho it runs pretty strong for what it is. I'm not interested in spending big $$$ to upgrade to a 900cc or 1,000cc stroker motor, so I figure a simple boondocker kit is a good choice (albeit a little scary b/c I've never used nitrous before).

Actually, I'd would much rather sell or trade off my twin peaks and get a nice used V-force and build it up for a combination of drags & trail riding, but I haven't had any luck finding the right buyer for my twin peaks and I honestly don't expect to find a buyer this time of year.

If anyone has any suggestions or words of advice for me, I'm all ears.

Happy trails...:)
 

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My Prairie is no match for my V, but honestly... because I don't have dunes at home I ride the P quite a bit more. It does everything. It's a race car in the woods. It muds. I built a bumper and was even push starting sprint cars at my local race track this past summer.

You own a 4x4 V-Force right now... with the exception of the strut front end. Nothin says asswhoopin like a Ute stompin a sport bike.

Put nitrous on it. You'll be happy. We'll help you along from start to finish. Now you just need to decide what kit you are going to buy. :p
 

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X2:stupid:
 

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take a good look at Boss Noss before you buy I really like their set up ,simple and great performance got it on my P..
 

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for simplicity, nothing beats the Boonie

if you watch e-bay, you could probably throw one together for a few hundred

the only priority part to them is their manifolds and pills, everything else is pretty generic
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The Boss Noss looks like a very good wet kit, but I don't care to modify the venturi stacks on my 36mm carbs and also drill into my airbox floor to install a nitrous kit (I already spent enuf time modifying my stock airbox to fit on the 36mm carbs)

I'd rather go with a simple kit like Boondocker. I was thinking about getting a cheap used kit on Ebay, but I'd rather get a new kit that comes with full instructions b/c I don't know what I'm doing yet. lol
 

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as a side note...what makes the Boonie really nice, is that you don't have to worry about bottle pressure....it self compensates, that's why you don't need a bottle heater.

Where as with wet kits, as the pressure drops you get less nitrous flowing but it still adds the same amount of fuel, one of the reasons they use heaters, to keep the pressure up
 

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The Boss Noss uses a smart box that adds the correct amount of fuel to the nitrous. It is constant from full to empty. You don't need a bottle heater either.

Nitrous for Dummies 101 - Install and forget about - BossNoss

Next in line for simplicity and adjustment - Boondocker

Boss Noss and Boondocker are both fogger systems.

3rd in line is the wet kit.
 

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other thing about buying a boon kit is, they are all pretty well the same so if you find one use on ebay for another quad or a snowmobile... get it... I have seen em go for 250 shipped on there.. as far as intructions... they are on the website... Like I said to a buddy, I wouldn't pay for a new boon kit cause they are $$$$$$$and once you get one, and see what little is there.. you will be mad about not buying a used one.
 

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First thing that needs to happen is the bike absolutely has to have a good reading off nitrous. Which through tuning, we have learned that's easy enough to achieve. Now depending on what system a guy chooses, it could come out either lean or rich on nitrous. Adjustments then need to be made to either the nitrous manifold or jets. On the Boondocker, (providing you have the right oriface cup in the line) you will adjust the manifold main screw first to get it close, then the fine tune screw second. Once your AF is good on the bottle, you are good to go. On a wet system, you may have to change fuel jets to achieve the same results. On a Boss Noss... install and forget about it. The smart box has been calibrated to give a constant 12.8 (If my memory is still good) all the way through.

If you want to go up with your Nitrous shot... tuning starts all over again. (except for the Boss Noss)

So once you achieve a good AF ratio off (first) and on nitrous (second)... it's time to race. :D
 

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First thing that needs to happen is the bike absolutely has to have a good reading off nitrous. Which through tuning, we have learned that's easy enough to achieve. Now depending on what system a guy chooses, it could come out either lean or rich on nitrous. Adjustments then need to be made to either the nitrous manifold or jets. On the Boondocker, (providing you have the right oriface cup in the line) you will adjust the manifold main screw first to get it close, then the fine tune screw second. Once your AF is good on the bottle, you are good to go. On a wet system, you may have to change fuel jets to achieve the same results. On a Boss Noss... install and forget about it. The smart box has been calibrated to give a constant 12.8 (If my memory is still good) all the way through.

If you want to go up with your Nitrous shot... tuning starts all over again. (except for the Boss Noss)

So once you achieve a good AF ratio off (first) and on nitrous (second)... it's time to race. :D

So what your saying Terry on a boss noss if your 12.8 off noss boss noss will compensate for nos? If I do it no more than a 30 shot will be all I use.
 
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