Kawasaki ATV Forum banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I just finished installing a 2" lift on my 2020 Mule Pro FXT Ranch Edition (actually lifted it right at 4"). Looking at doing wheels and tires here soon. Does anyone have any information about wheel offset? I'm wondering if I should get something that will widen the stance a little bit for better stability? I'm thinking about going to a 14" wheel and a 28" tire. From what I've been reading, I don't think I can go any larger with the tires without doing offset A Arms. Any information I can get would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
I would buy the same offset as stock, so if you were later want to sell, you would not be limited by an odd off set.
Then if you need to widen the stance, buy spacers.
I do think 14" is good choice, more tire options.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I would buy the same offset as stock, so if you were later want to sell, you would not be limited by an odd off set.
Then if you need to widen the stance, buy spacers.
I do think 14" is good choice, more tire options.
Do you happen to know what the factory offset is?
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
179 Posts
The offset won't change anything else besides bushing the front wheels forward. It'll still work with your stock axles. If you go offset front and rear arms, you can run bigger than a 30", and even more with that lift.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Well after going off the deep end like so many, I have come back to stock height on the Dirtbus, (Mule pro fxt eps le). I went up to 29” tires, highlifter 4” lift which actually was 5” for me. Problem is, your gearing is screwed unless your gonna go to portal lifts which let you get your original gearing back, but are crazy expensive. The Dirtbus was struggling going up some steep mountain terrain hear in the Sierra Nevadas due to the now tall gearing. Well after breaking a stock shock, wearing out the stock axels due to sharp angles and burning up a drive converter I have reversed course. So first I replaced the stock axles and wheel bearings with All Balls axles and bearings. I replaced all four shocks with Elka Stage 2 shocks. Elka would not warranty their shocks unless I removed the Highlifter lift, which I did. The 28” mongrells which still fit are almost worn out then I will drop down to Moose Racing 27” switchback tires, only 1” over stock. I will see how they go and if not satisfied, then back to 26” stock sized tires. To tell you the truth I’m much happier with the Dirtbus now than with the lift. My drive axels are almost dead horizontal so I know they won’t be constantly under severe stress. The Dirtbus rides like a dream on the Elka’s, and so far no issues with getting hung up with it lowered. The engineers at Kawasaki know much more about their machine than I do. Messing with drive axel angles and front end angles only leads to failure of said parts quicker. And for what tangible gain??? Beefing things up is one thing, changing the geometry is something entirely different. It feels to me now that I have found the sweet spot I was looking for to start with.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top