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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I bought a not running 06 Prairie 700 team Green edition fairly cheap. Hadn't run in a couple years apparently. So brought it home cleaned carbs, new plugs, new battery and set valves ( may have been a botched attempt by PO?). One of each cylinder intake valve with zero clearance , and exhaust valves extremely loose. It fired up awesome after I had all that done. But, it has a NASTY rapping sound increasing with rpm. Occasionally if it idled low enough it disappears momentarily.Any ideas where to start? It has 5600 miles and 740 hrs.0
Will try to get a link up to a video.
Thanks for your help, I'm a newb to Prairies but have done a 400 Eiger and a couple single m/c engines before. Do all my own service on all our motorcycles as well.
https://youtu.be/eVm3xvtXj2
 

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Too high to be a rod..at least from the audio I hear. Recheck all your valve lashes and be 100% sure you are on TDC of the compression stroke, not the exhaust stroke. Lots make that mistake. Take a compression test too to see if all is well. The way it stops and starts sometimes reminds me of a dropped valve stuck in the guide. In any case I wouldn't run it any more until the problem is found and fixed. Those engines are not cheap to replace or rebuild these days
 

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^What he said. Sounds like a rocker arm adjuster out of adjustment. Definitely a top end noise. Clanky!!
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So compression on front cyl is borderline(about 45 psi) rear is about 55. took off valve cover, nothing obvious, Triple checked valves...they are ok. Guess I will have to go deep if i keep it, Going to see if someone else wants a project first.
Thanks for your help
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I did pull out the cam and had a look. Thought the kacr was sticking a bit so took the sprocket off and sprayed everything. Put blue loctite on the sprocket bolts and reassembled. No change unfortunately.
Thanks for your help
Steve
 

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I did pull out the cam and had a look. Thought the kacr was sticking a bit so took the sprocket off and sprayed everything. Put blue loctite on the sprocket bolts and reassembled. No change unfortunately.
Thanks for your help
Steve
I don't suppose you saw anything wrong with the chain, tensioner or tensioner bar or that the tensioner was over extended. All looked good?

Interesting that there is 10psi difference between the front and rear. 2-5 I would consider normal. Over that...Hmm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Nothing jumped out at me. The tensioner looked to have about 1/2 it's travel left which I was very surprised about... When I get time
( not likely for a few wks or so) I will pull the engine and take off the head and cylinder. I'm guessing at this point probably a rod bearing or maybe piston slap ? Kinda doubt the latter but they are known for bottom end problems correct? Anyways thanks again for your help.
Steve
 

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Listening again has me focused on a tappet. There has to be a bad,weak or broken valve spring or a warped valve stem seizing in a guide or.. something with a rocker..somewhere. I would do a leak-down test asap and test all the valve's spring pressures. Place a flat-blade screwdriver on the valve end next to the tappet..NOT the spring retainer...the keepers could come out. Go by feel at first..one may feel very different then any other.
 

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So leak down passed with flying colors front and rear....
So no stuck or leaking valves and no broken rings. I guess start checking the valve train starting at the rockers then cam sprockets, then chains and tensioners. The cams aren't the only thing that is chain-driven though...the water/oil pump and the intermediate shaft also have chains that need checked.
 

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Think at this point I will just pull the engine and go from there. Likely going to be a winter project lol
I just listened to it again and that's probably the right thing to do. Bench it before something comes apart and the engine is lost.
 
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