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Killer Yeah I know but that has been my experience with CVT's Polaris and Kawi. I'm not knocking anyone and plan to have mine Dyno'd soon. I think if we can find out the peak hp rpm then talk to Rick Ritter or Helix maybe we can get our CVT"s tuned to perfection. Or get Dalton to work with our peak #'s and come up with a spring with minimum stall that matches the power curve more efficiently. I know there has got to be more potential in this unit for performance that everyone can use. And for you big bore folks maybe Mickey and Helix could get together and come up with something. He also said that the only mod to the CVT was the Or/Bl spring ,With the full dalton kit I think his #'s may have been a little better.
 
Originally posted by Bigun@Jan 19 2005, 03:46 PM
Killer Yeah I know but that has been my experience with CVT's Polaris and Kawi. I'm not knocking anyone and plan to have mine Dyno'd soon. I think if we can find out the peak hp rpm then talk to Rick Ritter or Helix maybe we can get our CVT"s tuned to perfection. Or get Dalton to work with our peak #'s and come up with a spring with minimum stall that matches the power curve more efficiently. I know there has got to be more potential in this unit for performance that everyone can use. And for you big bore folks maybe Mickey and Helix could get together and come up with something. He also said that the only mod to the CVT was the Or/Bl spring ,With the full dalton kit I think his #'s may have been a little better.
I agree 100% Bigun.....
 
Hey guys, if you need more fuel you just have to change the needles. With stk needles and no shims, once you go past a 180 main you don't get much more fuel. ie: going from 180's to 200's is a very very small change but going from 180's to 170's is a lot. With Dynajet needles you can add fuel up to about a 190-195 main, then you can take the main jet out and won't get much more fuel. The open area between the needle and the nozzle won't flow anymore. If you still need more fuel you just have to come up with a needle to suit.
Just bear in mind, the more you free up airflow the more sensative your jetting will become to temp and pressure changes.
ie: When we ran stk carbs with 198/200 mains with a vented airbox I never change jets from race to race.
When we changed carbs and started running just a K&N my jetting has to change big time with the weather.
Ray
 
I have talked to Helix at lenght about this.Then he goes into clutch mode and I'm like :blink: .LOL We need a entire new clutch to get more out of it.Those who sled compare your clutch to the V clutch.It's much bigger from what I understand.Commet was working on a clutch but never heard anything more about it.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Shotgun,
When John sent me the files, I can't get the torque to show up in the Dynojet software window. I sent him an email so he can tell me what I'm doing wrong. As soon as I hear back from him I'll post the torque #'s.


Baldy,
I think you and DynoRay are both on the same track. I think once you get beyond a certain point it doesn't matter how big you make the hole in the main, it just can't get any more gas around the needle through the hole in the carb bore. I will experiment with that when I get a chance.



MJohnson,
You are correct. That HP number was a bit lower than I expected but I can't get enough fuel into the machine with the setup I have to get the A/F ratio rich enough to make more power. When VForceJohn did his, he was not running the airbox it as open as I am now. His V was sitting about 15' away from the dyno while we were tuning. I will follow DynoRay's advice and try the DynoJet needles. The smaller needle would definitely open up space to allow more fuel to flow.


Flht3,
Yup, they are straight through. We lost the taper and needle seat by drilling them so big.


DynoRay,
Thanks for the heads up on the needles, that is an excellent idea. I will pursue this over the next few months.

I would really like to get the A/F where it should be and give the Dyna CDI another chance.


Thanks everyone for your input and idea's.

chris
 
That was one of the first things I noticed when I took the CVT cover off was that the primary and secondary cluches were smaller than even my Scramblers. But they seem to be much more efficient in stock form. I am wondering if Team will come out with one of their roller clutches for the V. That would be good for a couple more mph and faster backshift.
 
I agree with Dynoray about the jets.

I now do not run a open air box and am jetted 180-185.

I can post dyno #'s when I did the open air box mod on my own V. and how it compares to Bartlett's on 4 wheelsbetterthan2's V.

Same EXACT (and I mean EXACT but without the CDI) mods as 4wheelsbetterthan2. Before and after the 6 degree install when I tried the open air box.

Now this is 2 Different bikes on 2 different days.

how do you think the #'s will compare????

when I get to work in the AM I can scan the print outs and put them on here.

you might be suprised. ;)

***and Chris if you want to see the Tq#'s "RIGHT click" on the right of the Graph where it says NONE. Change this to what ever you want to display.
it also works on the Left side and Bottom.



John
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
John, I couldn't for the life of me remember how the hell to switch the numbers.


Shotgun, here are the torque numbers you wanted:
- whp -- torque
1 35.69 - 27.84
2 36.52 - 28.31 (stock bike w/ CDI only)
3 40.29 - 30.65 A/F probe fell out of exhaust
4 41.16 - 31.25
5 41.45 - 31.62
6 41.82 - 31.87
7 41.22 - 31.54
8 41.43 - 31.59
9 41.52 - 31.67


chris
 
Originally posted by VFORCEJOHN@Jan 19 2005, 10:09 PM
I agree with Dynoray about the jets.

I now do not run a open air box and am jetted 180-185.

I can post dyno #'s when I did the open air box mod on my own V.  and how it compares to Bartlett's on 4 wheelsbetterthan2's V.

Same EXACT (and I mean EXACT but without the CDI)  mods as 4wheelsbetterthan2. Before and after the 6 degree install when I tried the open air box.

Now this is 2 Different bikes on 2 different days.

how do you think the #'s will compare????

when I get to work in the AM I can scan the print outs and put them on here.

you might be suprised. ;)

***and Chris if you want to see the Tq#'s "RIGHT click" on the right of the Graph where it says NONE. Change this to what ever you want to display.
it also works on the Left side and Bottom.



John
John,

Is running the +6 key and a pipe along with the open airbox too much for these stock carbs?

Also, what are your thoughts on running the Dynojet needles with the Bartlett airbox mod?

And by the way, I am asking these questions because I have the Bartlett airbox, the 6* key, and the Muzzy. Since that is the identical setup to what you have tested here I would appreciate some feedback. I also have a Dynojet Kit laying around so if you think there is a benefit to running those needles I'd sure give it a try.
 
isn't raiseing the needles the same as the other needles (as more fuel). i've raised mine almost .060 and it's still lean. also i read an article about turning a cv carb and it says to start with the main at wot and when you get that right move to mid and so on till you're at idle. does anyone know if that was true or useless?
 
4wheelsrbetterthan2

Thanks for the #

SCH48, seems like that would be backwards, the pilots supply fuel all through the cycle, they would be first. then the needles, then mains.
 
kawpower - we've all thought of it. Not sure any of us knows how to do it, but we've certainly thought of it.

There are probably programmable, digital FI systems out there for street bikes that could be adapted. However, anything that's completely programmable tends to be terribly expensive.

The whole thing with Bartlett's airbox mod is that it's inexpensive. If you did his airbox and pipe mods you should gain about the same as we've seen here for a cost of about $300. Not too shabby.
 
Here is My Setup Back In December.

2 different Machines, 2 different times.

My Mods were.

Muzzy, Chopped Air Box (Same as Batletts), Drilled Jets,Stock Foam Filter, Dalton Or/Bl, Stock Cdi.

NO, 6 deg Key was NOT installed yet.

41.86 RWHP
 
4wheelsarebetterthan2,
I saw your comments in your initial post above that you believe your quad accelerates faster near the top-end with the Dyna CDI. I am not surprised to hear that b/c the Dyna cdi on my P650 has the same affect. I can physically see the acceleration difference by watching my speedo...With a stock cdi, I can see the acceleration on the speedo climb from 0 to 50 relatively quickly and then slowly climb to topspeed. With the Dyna cdi, I can see the acceleration climb quickly from 0 to top-speed (which is 3 mph higher than the stock cdi). For the Prairie, it seems that Dyna cdi's increased max ignition timing together with its removal of the retarded ignition timing at the top-end results in this increased acceleration (and higher top-speed) as compared to the stock cdi. I'm not surprised if it has a similar affect on the V-force.

Happy trails...:)
 
Here is My current Setup as of now.

6 deg Key, Muzzy, Closed Air Box, jetted 180-185, Closed Snokel Hole, 12-1 inch holes in ir box Cover.

It is True that the Open Air Box Design Increaces HP.

But Jetting Reqirements are too High.

Drilling the Jets out too big makes the fuel DRIP into the intake

and NOT ATOMIZE.

I get awesome fuel mileage and the added insurance of water driving.

well Here it is.
 
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