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stripped starter gear?

31K views 63 replies 16 participants last post by  Gallop  
#1 ·
I believe i have sheared the teeth on the starter today. I finally got it back together and noticed there was a clanking when i tried to crank and then when i went to move it back into the shop in clanked 1 or 2 times then wouldnt turn the motor over but you can hear the starter turning and it would try to crank with pull rope until i broke the rope.

What is involved in fixing this? Could the dyna CDI cause this I read somewhere on another forum that kawi had told him thats what was causing it. Its just weird that it happed when i put the dyna on there literally have 1 mile since dyna and now this.

any input would be appreciated
 
#2 ·
The CDI kickback causes this. Some do it, some don't. Take the side cover off and it will be staring you in the face right behind the flywheel. There will be about 10 teeth missing off the ring gear.
 
#3 ·
The CDI kickback causes this. Some do it, some don't. Take the side cover off and it will be staring you in the face right behind the flywheel. There will be about 10 teeth missing off the ring gear.
[/b]

if i leave the cdi on will it do this again any way to fix this issue.

can this be done by someone with minimal engine experience with a service manual.
 
#4 ·
<div class='quotemain'>
The CDI kickback causes this. Some do it, some don't. Take the side cover off and it will be staring you in the face right behind the flywheel. There will be about 10 teeth missing off the ring gear.
[/b]

if i leave the cdi on will it do this again any way to fix this issue.

can this be done by someone with minimal engine experience with a service manual.
[/b][/quote]


its not difficult, you should be fine with the manual :tup:
 
#5 ·
All you have to do is give it a small amount of throttle when you start it usually. Another CDI from the same company may not do it.

You can do it if you have a puller to get the flywheel off.
 
#6 ·
All you have to do is give it a small amount of throttle when you start it usually. Another CDI from the same company may not do it.

You can do it if you have a puller to get the flywheel off.
[/b]
Can you explain alittle bit more about what is happening. I dont want to fix this then first time i try and start it shears the teeth again because of the dyna.

Thanks for the help
 
#7 ·
it's called Kickback. The CDI advances the timing at startup. This can cause the cylinder to ignite prematurely which sends the motor turning in reverse, for just a split second, while the starter motor is trying to turn it the other way.

My prairie has done this since 2004 since I put the Dyna on it. I haven't broken any teeth.

I run a 6 degree key and the Dyna CDI. so I blame it on that.

John
 
#8 ·
it's called Kickback. The CDI advances the timing at startup. This can cause the cylinder to ignite prematurely which sends the motor turning in reverse, for just a split second, while the starter motor is trying to turn it the other way.

My prairie has done this since 2004 since I put the Dyna on it. I haven't broken any teeth.

I run a 6 degree key and the Dyna CDI. so I blame it on that.

John
[/b]
so in short it will more that likely do this again with the same cdi i have stock timing key in. I have the worst luck with this bike
 
#9 ·
If your battery is low, it can cause it to crank slower which will heighten the problems John stated.

The advanced timing fires and tries to push the piston down before it comes all the way to the top. And because your starter is engaged, it can break teeth off of the weakest link. That would be the ring gear teeth behind the flywheel.
 
#11 ·
I've broke two, it's happens to me, just as I'm letting off the key, (kickback) thinking it was going to start and it didn't, so hold it on a split second after it starts.

Haven't had a problem with the VDI, just the Dyna :pissed:
[/b]
how much is it going to cost to fix this? ive heard good reviews on the dyna and alot of people run them without a problem but it seems as soon as i get one everything goes wrong. ive heard the VDI dont like water.
 
#12 ·
All I've ever run is Dyna....never had a problem. But this is on a V
 
#13 ·
The new VDI (Gen 2) doesn't mind water.
 
#15 ·
Yes that is the part number. Not sure on the cheapest place since I'm from Canada and get raped on parts. :huh:
 
#17 ·
There's another 8-10 teeth cracked in different spots that you can't see in this pic.

Image
 
#18 ·
Ill have to get a pic of mine when i get it out.


g-rider let me know if you have one and how much shipped. I talked to MQM but he is out of the country and cant get it to me until the end of the month.

Where can i find a flywheel puller at?
 
#20 ·
You can order the proper puller (I borrowed one from my Kawie dealer. My neighbor works there) or a stering wheel puller works as well.
 
#21 ·
I use a 3 jaw automotive puller. looks like a big claw. works flawlessly every time

if you use the KAWY type puller. put the crank bolt back in!!!! otherwise you thread the puller bolt in the crank and it'll split it

John
 
#57 ·
Hooking or grabbing what?

I use a 3 jaw automotive puller. looks like a big claw. works flawlessly every time

if you use the KAWY type puller. put the crank bolt back in!!!! otherwise you thread the puller bolt in the crank and it'll split it

John
When using this 3 jaw automative puller where are you hooking or what are you grabbing to pull from?

When using this claw type puller you do not need to remove the allan head bolts right?

Just make sure that I have the cank bolt back in before pulling!

Thanks!
 
#23 ·
Yes that one will work. The bearing in the pic slides off. Then put the flywheel bolt back in the crank like John said. Then remove 2 of the circled bolts and install the puller. Make sure the puller pushes on the crank bolt.

Make sure that puller mounting bolts have the same thread pitch as the metric ones you remove.

Image


When you take the side cover off... you have to remove the water pump cover and water pump impeller first. The shaft stays with the motor as you can see in the pic. Be gentle with the water pump seal by pulling the cover off straight. It's ceramic and can be easily damaged.

Also when you go to install the cover, the stator magnets can pull the flywheel off the shaft, then you have to start the install over. Take a soft blow hammer or a block of wood and seat the flywheel onto the crank. One good whack seats it good enough that it stays on the crank during install.

You will need a new side cover gasket, ring gear, A/F and oil plus your basic tools.

This is the puller made for the job.

Image
 
#24 ·
Any else have a hard time getting bearing off the crank? My first engine was a bitch because split the end of the crank(at that time it wasn't being posted about reinstalling the bolt)But it's also a bitch on my second one. I did buy the second engine used,but it looked like a virgin when I opened her up and I did it the right way.
 
#25 ·
what is the word in bold
Then put the flywheel bolt back in the crank like John said. Then remove 2 of the circled bolts and install the puller. Make sure the puller pushes on the crank bolt.[/b]
what is the flywheel bolt? is that the one that i take off in the pull start

Thanks for the pics CamoKVF700

I hope i dont have any trouble doing this is screw something else up. Where did the missing teeth go? should i worry about them?
 
#26 ·
Don't mind Camo,he can't spell at times :lol:
Yes on the bolt.