69 ft-lbs for the primary and secondary bolts. Primary is reverse threads, make sure your torque wrench works in reverse.

 

And make sure the taper fit end of the crank and clutch are perfectly clean and dry first.

The small bolts just need to be snugged with a 1/4" ratchet and one hand.

Sent while wishing I was on my snowbike

 

The 08s and up are actually 68ftlbs on the primary and secondary bolt/nut and 115inlbs on the cover bolts. That's 9.5 ftlbs which most ftlbs torque wrenches have a problem with that low.

 

The 08s and up are actually 68ftlbs on the primary and secondary bolt/nut and 115inlbs on the cover bolts. That's 9.5 ftlbs which most ftlbs torque wrenches have a problem with that low.

Right there^^^

 

Anywhere between 65-70ft/lbs is fine.

 

Cool. Thanks guys. Any suggestions on how to tighten and torque the secondary nut? Probably just tighten rear brakes and keep on foot on the brake?

 

Never force torque through gear boxes. Just put a 1/2" extension between one holder post on the secondary outer sheave and the floorboard

 

I'm thinking the driveline will handle 68ft/lbs of torque. I know it will handle my impact wrench at somewhere between 75-100ft/lbs, 'cause that's what I put secondary nuts back on with, lol.

 

I'm puttin 400 ft/lbs through my drivetrain daily. Haha

 

Always found it beneficial to listen to the ones designing things. Maybe its not just a matter of handling the torque. Maybe it also has something to do with reading accuracy..who knows. I'm no engineer. They also say not to use air or electric impacts...but what do they know. You guys do it every day with no ill effects. It's just that I was taught long long ago that when applying torque to any fastener of any rotating object, the counter force has to be applied to that object itself. A lesson that hasn't failed me yet so...I'll continue to do it that way....and with a torque wrench. Just old fashioned I guess.

 

Check out the Kawi dealer techs when they put a secondary clutch back on; 9 times out of 10 they'll just whack it on with an impact wrench.

 

Ditto. I'm not gonna call any names, but a couple of the most reputable guys on here told me to do that. "Just let the impact hit a couple times, DON'T HAMMER it on." The reverse threaded primary in theory cannot loosen on its own and the secondary is on a splined shaft with spring washers. I torqued the secondary once. I had to run a strap from my pickup truck under the wheeler to the winch, put it in gear and turn the nut. It took forever for the suspension to load enough for the wrench to click. Never again. We tried fitting an extension against the secondary but that's sketchy at best. I wouldn't use an impact to run the puller tool, but putting em back on will be a headache without it.

 

I bought a clutch puller tool awhile back that was mis-machined right from the factory. Luckily, I was using it by hand when I found this out! If I'd have used an air gun, I would have never been able to feel that something just wasn't right with the tool, and probably would have stripped out my threads!

 

I agree with NMKAWIERIDER. I'd rather torque according to specs. I just saw on an EPI video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQbb8U-Gryo&feature=player_detailpage how they used an socket extention between a knob on the secondary clutch and the floorboard to torque it. I'll probably put a little blue (medium) locktight on the nut as well.

 

Okay, one more question. What's the torque spec on the Primary Clutch face bolts? There's eight of them. I've broken too many bolts in the past, that's why I'm asking.

 

I just put a dalton clutch kit in my brute force 750 today. I put the orange-blue spring in and did everything I was suppose to except put the rivets in. When I started it up and tested it out there is a bit of hesitation when I excelerate. Happens everytime. Does anybody know why it does this? And If I put the blue spring in instead would that hesitation go away?